Manufactured Stone Damage

Manufactured stone is a lightweight, man-made concrete masonry product that is typically cast into random sizes in a variety of colors and finishes meant to mimic the look of quarried rock. It is generally applied as a masonry veneer to exterior and interior walls, columns and landscape structures.

Manufactured stone, sometimes referred to as precast stone and simulated stone, is technically called adhered manufactured stone masonry veneer (AMSMV). Cultured Stone®, a name that is sometimes used generically, is actually a masonry product manufactured by Owens Corning, and is probably the most popular manufactured stone used in the U.S.

Inspectors are likely to come across manufactured stone during inspections, and will want to be familiar with the details of this building material, as well as some of the problems associated with it. Water damage due to incorrect installation is a significant area of concern, and inspectors and homeowners alike can benefit from knowing how this can occur.

Manufactured Stone vs. Cast Stone

Manufactured stone is often referred to by many different names. While in most instances, the various names can be used interchangeably, manufactured stone is not synonymous with cast stone. Manufactured stone is a different product entirely. Cast stone is a refined architectural concrete building unit whose appearance is meant to simulate quarried stone, but is generally built into a load-bearing masonry wall system. This is a different purpose from the lightweight veneer created with manufactured stone. These two products are manufactured according to different standards and are intended for different applications, although they are often confused with each other.

Pros and Cons

Manufactured stone provides some benefits over quarried rock. However, there are some important concerns to be aware of.

Advantages

Although manufactured stone is basically nothing more complicated than standard cement, the molding and coloring process allows for it to be made almost indistinguishable from real quarried stone. It can be molded and colored to look like a wide variety of different stone facings.
As a lightweight veneer, manufactured stone allows the aesthetic of a real stone structure to be achieved simply and cost-effectively.
Manufactured stone veneer can be applied to wood frame, masonry and metal structures, and does not require foundational support.
When properly installed and maintained, manufactured stone is extremely durable and will last for many years.

Disadvantages

Proper installation is absolutely critical with this product. Incorrect installation of manufactured stone veneer on an exterior wall can lead to serious damage from water penetration, occurring even over a relatively short period of time. There have been reports of serious foundation rotting due to improperly installed veneers in homes less than two years old.
Though the pigment used to color the manufactured stone is generally durable and will not fade, de-icing salts, harsh chemicals, cleaning solvents and paint thinners can cause discoloration and staining.
It has been reported that manufactured stone used around swimming pools can be discolored by chlorine.

Water Damage

Similar to what has become a common problem with synthetic stucco, improper installation of manufactured stone veneer on exterior walls has lead to serious concern about water damage. Improper flashing and drainage details behind the veneer are often the culprit, just like with synthetic stucco, but the damage with manufactured stone can often be more severe. cultured stone house Manufactured Stone Damage This is because, unlike synthetic stucco, manufactured stone is not installed with an air space between the cladding and the framed wall. When the veneer is saturated with water during a rainstorm, it holds rainwater right up against the framed wall. With little drainage or drying space, housewrap (or building paper) and flashing have a harder time diverting the moisture. If care is not taken during installation to cover every detail properly, serious water damage may result under relatively normal weather and seasonal conditions.

Manufactured stone veneers share many similar concerns with synthetic stucco. Proper seams at windows and doors are important, and building paper or housewrap must be lapped correctly in order to keep water diverted from the framed wall. Window pan flashings can be helpful if correctly installed. Bottom terminations of manufactured stone veneer are best equipped with weep screeds of some kind in order to avoid the pooling of water at the lowest points, which can cause those areas to stay continuously wet. The tops of windows and door openings are also spots that will benefit from weep screeds.

Another issue can arise when manufactured stone is paired up with a different material on the same wall. Synthetic stucco, for example, is often installed on part of a wall, with the rest of the wall covered with manufactured stone. Water will penetrate to the wood-frame wall and cause damage if the seam between the two claddings is not properly managed during installation.

Inspection Tips

The most important thing to look for when inspecting an exterior wall clad in manufactured stone is correct installation. Even if there is no visible water damage, steps must be taken to guard against it. Here are some things inspectors can keep in mind when examining these walls.

The base of wood-frame walls need weep screeds, as do the tops of windows and door openings.
In order to avoid water penetration at the seams at windows, doors and adjacent trim, as well as at seams and joints where manufactured stone meets another form of cladding, these seams should be sealed. Corrosion-resistant flashing with a drip edge should be installed with a bedding seal included under the flashing. A water-resistant barrier should lap over the back edge of the flashing for positive drainage. A piece of manufactured stone veneer with an edge that slopes away from the building is also beneficial for use here.
In order to ensure proper drainage and to avoid the possibility of termites tunneling through it, the veneer should not be in contact with the ground or pavement.
The veneer should not be in contact with roofing materials.
If the veneer has been installed correctly, there will be nothing other than mortar visible between the stones.
Kick-out flashings should be installed everywhere they are needed, and should divert water away from the manufactured stone veneer and the building in general. If proper detailing and flashing are not installed, water may penetrate the cladding and cause structural damage from rotting.
The manufacturer’s instructions for the particular AMSMV product installed should always be followed by the installer.

Manufactured stone is growing in popularity, and as inspectors encounter it more frequently, they are also likely to see problems related to water damage. Inspectors who know more about this will be able to answer their clients’ questions and identify potential issues during an inspection.

Carpet Mold: Identification, Prevention and Removal

Mold produces allergens, which are substances that can cause allergic reactions, as well as irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances known as mycotoxins. Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).

Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold, but can also occur.

Carpet at Risk for Mold Growth

Carpeting is an area of the home that can be at high risk for mold growth. In order to grow, mold needs moisture, oxygen, a food source, and a surface to grow on. Mold spores are commonly found naturally in the air. If spores land on a wet or damp spot indoors that contains dust for them to feed on, mold growth will soon follow. Wall-to-wall carpeting, as well as area rugs, can provide an ample breeding ground for mold if conditions are right. At especially high risk for mold growth are carpeting located below ground level in basements, carpet in commonly moist or damp climates, and carpet that has been wet for any period of time.

Identifying Mold in Carpeting

Just because mold is not immediately apparent or visible on a carpet’s surface does not mean that mold growth is not in progress. In fact, mold will probably only be visible on the surface of carpets in unusually severe cases of growth, such as carpet damaged in flooding that has remained wet for some time. The following are some examples of identifiable instances where mold growth has occurred or is likely to occur:

visible mold growth: As stated above, this can be a rare case, but sometimes it may be obvious from visual inspection that mold growth is occurring. Carpet in this condition is most likely not salvageable and should be disposed of and replaced. Often, even if mold growth is not visible on the top of carpeting, it may be occurring underneath the carpet where it can’t be easily seen. Carpet suspected of containing mold should always be examined on both sides.
carpet mildew: Any discoloration or odor on carpeting that might be described as mildew is probably a case of mold.
wet or water-damaged carpet: Any carpet that has been subjected to water damage from flooding or standing water will most likely need to be disposed of. Conditions are ripe for mold growth, in this case. Even if visibly apparent mold growth has not yet begun, it is highly likely to happen unless the carpet is completely removed, cleaned and dried within 24 to 48 hours. Even then, removal and cleaning are not guaranteed to prevent mold growth. It is more likely that the carpet will need to be replaced.
wet padding beneath carpet: If padding beneath the carpet has become wet for any reason, or has become moist from condensation, the padding as well as the carpet on top are at risk for mold growth. The padding may need to be replaced, as will the carpet, in some cases.
basement carpet: Carpeting in basements below grade level is especially at risk in areas where humidity is high, or where wide temperature swings can produce condensation.
odors and stains: There is a wide range of things that can cause odors and stains on carpets. If mold is suspected, samples can be taken and sent for analysis to determine if mold growth has occurred.

Preventing Mold Growth in Carpeting

The best method for combating mold is to not allow mold growth in the first place. The best way to do so is by ensuring that conditions conducive to growth do not exist. Below are some ways to prevent mold growth in carpets.

Reduce indoor humidity. The use of dehumidifiers will help control moisture in the air, depriving mold spores of the water they need to grow into mold. A range of 30% to 60% humidity is acceptable for interiors.
Install intelligently. Do not install carpeting in areas that are likely to be subject to frequent, high moisture. Carpet in a bathroom, for example, will quickly turn to a breeding ground for mold growth due to the high humidity from constant water use in that area.
Choose high-quality carpet padding. Solid, rubber-slab carpet padding with anti-microbial properties is available. It is slightly more expensive than other types of padding but can be helpful for preventing the growth of mold, especially in climates prone to periods of high humidity.
Never allow standing water. Carpet exposed to standing water will quickly be ruined. If standing water ever occurs because of a leak or a spill, all carpeting exposed must be immediately cleaned and dried. The top and bottom surfaces of the carpet, any padding, and the floor underneath must be cleaned and completely dried within a short period of time after exposure to standing water if the carpet is to be saved. If a large flood has occurred, or if standing water has been present for any extended period of time, the carpet will probably need to be replaced.
Clean smart. When carpeting needs to be cleaned, try to use a dry form of cleaning, when possible. If any water, liquid, or other moisture has come in contact with the carpet during cleaning, be sure it is dried thoroughly afterward.

Removing Mold From Carpet

In many cases, if mold has grown on carpet, cleaning will not be possible. If growth has occurred on more than one area of the carpet, or if there is a large area of growth, the carpet will probably need to be replaced. carpet mold Carpet Mold: Identification, Prevention and Removal

Small areas of growth that have been quickly identified can sometimes be dealt with. Detergent and water used with a steam-cleaning machine may be enough to clean the carpet thoroughly. It is then important to ensure that the carpet dries completely after cleaning to prevent the growth from recurring. Stronger cleaning agents can be substituted if detergent does not work. Anything stronger than detergent or common rug-cleaning products should first be tested on an inconspicuous area of the carpet to ensure that the rug will not be damaged during cleaning. About 24 hours is a reasonable amount of time to wait after testing to be sure that wider cleaning will not discolor or damage the carpet.

Another option in instances where mold growth is not widespread is to remove the ruined section of the carpet. If cleaning has been attempted unsuccessfully, the area of mold growth may be removed and replaced with a patch of similar carpet. Of course, this will only work in situations where aesthetics are not a big concern, since exactly matching the patch to the original carpet may be difficult and the seam may be visible. If mold has grown in more than one area of the carpet, or if the area of growth is larger than a couple of feet, this will probably not be an effective method of mold removal.

As with all areas of the interior at risk for mold growth, prevention is the best method of control for carpet mold. Eliminating high-moisture conditions and preventing the risk of flooding or standing water will reduce the possibility of growth. Inspectors will want to know where to look for and how to identify mold growth in carpeting. It is also helpful to know how to determine if carpet should be replaced, or whether there is a possibility of cleaning and saving it.

Carpet Mold: Identification, Prevention and Removal

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Preparing Your Home for Winter

Winterization is the process of preparing a home for the harsh conditions of winter. It is usually performed in the fall before snow and excessive cold have arrived. Winterization protects against damage due to bursting water pipes, and from heat loss due to openings in the building envelope.

Know how winterization works.

Winterization of Your Plumbing System

Water damage caused by bursting pipes during cold weather can be devastating. A ruptured pipe will release water and not stop until someone shuts off the water. If no one is home to do this, an enormous quantity of water can flood a house and cause thousands of dollars’ worth of damage. Even during very small ruptures or ruptures that are stopped quickly, water leakage can result in mold and property damage. Broken water pipes can be costly to repair.

Understanding Good Winterization Practices

All exposed water pipes in cold areas, such as attics, garages, and crawlspaces, should be insulated. Foam or fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most hardware stores. Insulation should cover the entirety of a pipe.
Plastic is more tolerant of cold expansion than copper or steel. Houses in colder climates might benefit from the exclusive use of approved plastic plumbing.
Water supply for exterior pipes should be shut off from inside the house and then drained.
Sprinkler systems are particularly vulnerable to cracking due to cold-weather expansion. In addition to turning them, it helps to purge the system of any remaining water with compressed air.
Homeowners should be aware that much of the plumbing system travels through areas that are significantly colder than the rest of the house. Because it is impossible to monitor the temperature of every portion of the plumbing system, indoor air temperature should be kept high enough throughout the winter to keep pipes in any unheated places from freezing.

Winterization and Leaks in the Building Envelope

Leaky window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets can allow warm air to escape into the outdoors.

Windows that leak will allow cold air into the home. Feeling for drafts with a hand or watching for horizontal smoke from an incense stick are a few easy ways to inspect for leaks. They can be repaired with tape or caulk.
On a breezy day, a homeowner can walk through the house and find far more leaks than they knew existed. Leaks are most likely in areas where a seam exists between two or more building materials.

Insulation and Winterization

Because hot air rises into the attic, a disproportionately larger amount of heat is lost there than in other parts of the house. Like a winter hat that keeps a head warm, adequate attic insulation will prevent warm indoor air from escaping. Attic insulation should be 12 inches thick in cold climates.
Storm doors and windows should be installed to insulate the house and protect against bad weather.

Winterization of Heating Systems

The heating system is used most during the winter so it’s a good idea to make sure that it works before it’s desperately needed. The following inspection and maintenance tips can be of some help to homeowners:

Test the furnace by raising the temperature on the thermostat. If it does not respond to the adjustment quickly it might be broken.
Replace the air filter if it’s dirty.
If the furnace is equipped with an oil or propane tank, the tank should be full.

Winterization of Cooling Systems

Use a hose to remove leaves and other debris from the outdoor condensing unit, if the home is equipped with one. Protect the unit with a breathable waterproof cover to prevent rusting and freezing of its components.
Remove and store window air conditioners when they are no longer needed. Cold air can damage their components and enter the house through openings between the air conditioner and the windowpane.
Ceiling fans can be reversed in order to warm air trapped beneath the ceiling to recirculate. A fan has been reversed if it spins clockwise.

Winterization of Chimneys and Fireplaces

The chimney should be inspected for nesting animals trying to escape the cold. Squirrels and raccoons have been known to enter chimneys for this reason.
The damper should open and close with ease. Smoke should rise up the chimney when the damper is open. If it doesn’t, this means that there is an obstruction in the chimney that must be cleared before the fireplace can be used.
A chimney-cleaning service professional should clean the chimney if it has not been cleaned for several years.
The damper should be closed when the fireplace is not in use. An open damper might not be as obvious to the homeowner as an open window, but it can allow a significant amount of warm air to escape.
Glass doors can be installed in fireplaces and wood stoves to provide an extra layer of insulation.

Winterization of Roofs

If debris is left in gutters, it can get wet and freeze, permitting the formation of ice dams that prevent water from draining. This added weight has the potential to cause damage to gutters. Also, trapped water in the gutter can enter the house and lead to the growth of mold. For these reasons, leaves, pine needles, and all other debris must be cleared from gutters. This can be done by hand or with a hose.
Missing shingles should be replaced.

Winterization of Landscape

Patio furniture should be covered.
If there is a deck, it might need an extra coat of sealer.

Adequate winterization is especially crucial for homes that are left unoccupied during the winter. This sometimes happens when homeowners who own multiple properties leave one home vacant for months at a time while they occupy their summer homes. Foreclosed homes are sometimes left unoccupied, as well. The heat may be shut off in vacant homes in order to save money. Such homes must be winterized in order to prevent catastrophic building damage.

In addition to the information above, InterNACHI advises the following winterization measures to prepare an unoccupied home for the winter:

Winterize toilets by emptying them completely. Antifreeze can be poured into toilets and other plumbing fixtures.
Winterize faucets by opening them and leaving them open.
Water tanks and pumps need to be drained completely.
Drain all water from indoor and outdoor plumbing.
Unplug all non-essential electrical appliances, especially the refrigerator. If no electrical appliances are needed, electricity can be shut off at the main breaker.

Home winterization is a collection of preventative measures designed to protect homes against damage caused by cold temperatures. These winterization measures should be performed in the fall, before it gets cold enough for damage to occur. Indoor plumbing is probably the most critical area to consider when winterizing a home, although other systems should not be ignored.

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