Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

A Home Energy Inspection

 

Play the 1-minute video below:

Home Energy Operating Costs

It takes a lot of energy to heat, cool, and operate a home. Most home buyers purchase a home without first understanding what it will cost to operate it once they move in.

HOME ENERGY REPORT

The Home Energy Report will give a home buyer a quick understanding of:

  • how much a home will cost to operate once they move in;
  • where energy (and, therefore, money) is being wasted in the home; and
  • what can be done to save energy and increase comfort.

The average homeowner can save over $500 every year on utility bills by following the prioritized recommendations within the Home Energy Report.

CERTIFIED INSPECTION

To produce a Home Energy Report, your inspector will collect over 40 data points related to home energy, then use an advanced energy calculator developed by the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors to:

  • estimate the home’s yearly energy usage;
  • pinpoint potential energy inefficiencies;
  • develop recommendations for energy improvements; and
  • determine your potential energy savings.

HOME ENERGY BOOK

The Home Energy Book is included with your Home Energy Report. This companion e-book describes additional ways to save energy, increase comfort, and protect the environment. It also includes do-it-yourself tips to save energy right now, including easy low-cost and no-cost ways to save energy.

MAKING HOME ENERGY IMPROVEMENTS

The benefits from making energy improvements include saving on your utility bills, increasing the comfort of your home, and reducing your use of natural resources. In the example report shown above, this home will cost the homeowner $1,451 per year to operate. If the family makes the recommended energy improvements after they move in, they could expect to save $571 every year. These estimates and recommendations are based on the energy calculations and cost databases administered by the U.S. Department of Energy and its Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.

www.inspectorseek 300x282 A Home Energy Inspection
 A Home Energy Inspection

Structural Framing

Structural Framing Evaluation

Evaluating structural framing can be difficult for several reasons:
  • the quality of structural framing work varies widely;
  • building standards and practices for structural framing have changed over the years; and
  • different structural framing methods have been used and considered acceptable in different parts of North America.
The following is an overview of evaluating structural framing, as well as a discussion of the limitations of this type of building system.
In evaluating a homes structural framing, at one end of the spectrum are great architectural designs and engineering, quality workmanship, and top-quality materials.  At the other end of the spectrum, all those things are poor and failing. Homes that are either in great shape or terrible shape are easy to inspect because they require very little judgment.
In most of the homes, the quality of design, workmanship and material will lie somewhere in the middle. Often we have to decide whether something is a defect or just poor-quality work, whether it’s dangerous and needs immediate correction, or whether it will last and be safe, even though it’s ugly?  Making these decisions correctly is really the hard part.

Knowing Structural Framing Fundamentals

Some structural framing work may be several hundred years old, and in all types of homes in between. What was acceptable 80 years ago may not be acceptable now.  While this is especially true for parts of the home like the electrical system, basic framing methods haven’t changed as radically.
Most of what can be seen will be variations on western platform framing, balloon framing, or post-and-beam. Once we understand the basic framing methods, you’ll at least have an idea of what structural framing configuration is probably behind the drywall.

Inspecting Structural Framing in Context

Evaluate homes in the context of the time in which they were originally built, taking into consideration locally accepted framing practices, and the general quality of the home. Don’t expect a 300-year-old cottage in Boston, Massachusetts, to be built like a brand new mansion in Pacific Palisades, California.
Speaking of mansions… Don’t assume that high-end homes have been built using good quality materials or workmanship. Those assumptions can cause you to make major misses, and a major miss in a mufti-million dollar home can make you cry all the way to your lawyer’s office.
Three-hundred years ago, there were highly skilled carpenters, other carpenters whose skills were terrible, and carpenters whose skills lay between the extremes. That hasn’t changed, and the same is true for other occupations connected with the building of homes.

Structural Framing Load Path

Homes are built to transfer the structural load down through the framing to the foundation and soil. This is called the “load path” and it’s where most of the forces in a home’s structural framing are concentrated.
Understanding the different types of basic framing methods will help you to identify load paths in homes built using different framing methods. Being able to locate key point loads will also help you know where to look for structural framing problems.
Point loads are loads that are concentrated in a small area, such as where a post supporting a ridge beam rests on a header above a window. Point loads are high-stress areas.
Load paths don’t always transfer the load downward. Uplift can be a strong force, too. Forces may move down, up, and laterally during an earthquake, so if you live in an area subject to seismic events, such as Northridge, California, you’ll need to learn about the structural framing methods that have been developed to deal with shakers.

Structural Framing Support

Since the structural framing is supported by the foundation and soil, any movement of those components will be reflected in the framing.
Keep in mind that there can be a number of reasons for soil movement, such as:
  • changes in soil volume with the gain or loss of moisture content. Moisture can cause certain clays to expand as they gain moisture, and some types may contract with loss of moisture. These are called “expansive soils.” Excessive soil moisture can also affect the ability of the soil to bear a load. When expansive soils are the cause, the problem may continue;and/or
  • inadequate compaction during original construction. When soil is disturbed during excavation, it must be re-compacted by mechanical means before the foundation is installed on it. If soil is not re-compacted, the weight of the structure will cause soil to consolidate as soil particles are pressed together. The result is settling of the soil and anything resting on it. Once the soil reaches a compacted state, settling will stop. This type of problem usually takes place within the first few years after original construction, then stops.
Undermining from erosion Structural Framing
Foundation undermining from erosion can be caused by:
  • erosion caused by water flowing from underground springs or poorly routed roof drainage.  This can undermine the foundation (bad roof drainage caused the undermining in the photo above): and/or
  • nearby excavation. Soil supporting the foundation is supported by the surrounding soil. Digging too near the foundation can interrupt the cone of support beneath load-bearing soil.
Knowing what to look for will require some knowledge about the soils and construction practices common to the areas in which you work. It takes time to build that library of knowledge, but you can speed the process by talking to local contractors and building officials.

Where to Look For Structural Framing

Much of the structural framing is hidden, so look for evidence of failure in the components you can see, such as the materials covering the floor, walls and roof.
When faced with difficult decisions, remember what we do as a home inspector. You perform a visual General Home Inspection designed to identify safety issues, and system, structural framing and component defects.

Structural Framing Design and Engineering

Structural framing design and engineering are important because the size and strength of structural framing members and the ways in which they’re connected should be adequate. We don’t have to perform calculations in order to determine structural framing  adequacy. Instead, we’ll be looking for signs of failure.

Structural Floor Framing

When it comes to inspecting floors, we may do more inspecting with our feet and sense of balance than with our eyes.
Looking for floors that are out of level or not flat.  One of the easiest ways to spot these problems is to walk across the floor. If the floor slopes down, you may speed up a little and feel light on your feet. If the floor slopes up, the opposite will be true.
If we find problems with the floor being out of flat or level, your concern will be trying to determine whether the problems were built into the home, which has remained stable, or whether they’re the result of foundation/soil movement, which may continue, eventually causing serious and/or expensive-to-repair damage. Problems can also be the result of a combination of those two conditions.
If the problem is something such as a hump in the floor, we may see studs cut to the wrong length in a basement wall, or the foundation may not have been poured to the right elevation. Both of these conditions indicate that the problem was built in, and the home is probably stable.
If we can see a hump in the foundation beneath a basement wall, the problem may be heaving, in which case we’d look for a source of moisture or ask about expansive soils. A crack in the foundation may also indicate heaving.
One of the places at which to spot movement of floor framing is at doors. If the floor has heaved or settled, the margin above the doors will often be affected.
Again, the sales price or size of the home is no guarantee that work will be high-quality.
 front Structural Framing
You Can’t Always Trust First Impressions
The photos to follow were taken beneath the beautiful 10,000-square-foot log home pictured above. There were no indications of structural framing problems until the inspector entered the crawlspace.
Inadequate post base Structural Framing
Inadequate post base
Inadequate Post Base
Floor structural framing defects in crawlspaces are often related to a girder that supports lapped floor joists down the middle of a span. These girders are often built up by bolting multiple joists together. Girders should be supported by posts resting on concrete pads.
Unsupported girder Structural Framing
Unsupported girder
Improperly Supported Break in Built-Up Girder
Failure to properly construct and install them can result in catastrophic failure. Where girders break, both sides should be supported by a post. The photo above depicts the result of poor workmanship, and could be corrected by a qualified contractor.
Overloaded girder Structural Framing
Overloaded girder
Overloaded Structural Framing Girder
Girders are sometimes subjected to heavy loads. Sometimes, failure is obvious, and a structural engineer is needed. The overloaded girder in the photo above is the result of poor structural framing design as well as poor workmanship. Crawlspaces are damp environments. The web of the steel I-beam supporting this post might easily be weakened by corrosion. Since the beam is already failing, eventually, the whole assembly will fail.
WALL FRAMING
In evaluating wall framing, look for walls that are out of plumb, or not flat or straight. If we see protruding drywall in a tall wall, we’ll look to see if it’s at the same height as the floor joists. Upper or lower walls may be out of plumb, or the floor assembly may have components that are not flush.
It’s not unusual to find walls out of plumb because it’s not unusual to find carpenters’ levels that don’t read true. High-quality levels are relatively expensive. Levels with adjustable vials have to be adjusted regularly.
Walls areas that bow in or out may be caused by failure to crown wall studs. All studs have a slight bow in one direction. This is called the “crown,” and in better-quality framing, the studs are all crowned in the same direction.
Walls that are not straight may not have been properly aligned and braced during framing.
Both poorly crowned studs and walls that are not straight are cosmetic issues unless they’re extreme.
Diagonal cracks off the corners of doors and windows typically indicate soil movement. If you see them, look for foundation problems.
ROOF FRAMING
Roof framing members 1 Structural Framing

Roof Structural Framing Members

For roof framing we can see, such as in the attic, bowed, sagging, cracked or broken framing, and missing structural framing components. We may also be able to see evidence of poor workmanship, such as improper connectors or fasteners, improperly installed purlin bracing, or blocks that prevent air from flowing into the attic from the soffit vents.
Sagging ridge 1 Structural Framing
Sagging rafters or inadequate rater ties can cause the ridge to sag and the exterior walls to bow out.

Structural Framing In General

For areas in which we can’t see the structural framing directly, we’ll be looking for signs of failure, such as sagging, unevenness, or cracking of the interior or exterior wall coverings.
The point at which poor-quality work becomes defective work can be tough to nail down.
If something looks wrong but shows no signs of failure after 50 years, we’d need a pretty good reason to call for correction. If it’s new and looks wrong, it may fail.
Make sure that if you can’t see it, you can’t inspect it, and you accept no responsibility for confirming its condition.
Part of this job is to limit the client’s expectations. Most inspectors aren’t structural engineers who are also experts in every building trade, although there are people out there who will expect you to know it all.

Quoting Code for Structural Framing

If certain of the year the home was built, know what codes were in effect in that area at that time. Maybe an apparent code violation as can be cited for the structural framing defect.
That said, building codes were developed to help ensure consumer safety, and code books are good reference material for home inspectors.
For conventional roofs, sometimes a qualified contractor experienced in structural framing of roof systems can be helpful. For truss roofs, a structural framing engineer should be consulted because most of the defects related to trusses require calculations.
For other types of structural framing issues, recommendations will depend on what was seen and what our experience tells you.
Recommendations will reflect our confidence in identifying the problem. If we’re not sure, it’s safest to recommend a structural framing engineer, even through it will cost the client money. If we feel confident that we understand the structural framing problem and that a qualified contractor can handle it well, then recommend a structural framing contractor.

Improving Structural Framing Skills

The ability to judge structural framing will improve with experience, especially if we all work at expanding our library of knowledge. Online forums are good venues for learning about how to evaluate structural framing.

We can also learn how buildings should be framed from books and videos, but the practical evaluation of the long-term safety and structural framing performance of a home is learned more easily from experience and remodel contractors… and time spent looking at homes.

 

Structural Framing Information

Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

Shingle inspections can usually uncover a problem and can in most cases be replaced by breaking or cutting their adhesive-strip bonds. Once the fasteners are removed, the damaged shingle can be replaced with one that matches, and then hand-sealed.

Removing a damaged shingle without damaging the surrounding shingles may be impossible on older roofs with brittle shingles. If this appears to be the case, be sure to have an extra shingle or two available or seek the help of a professional roofer.

It’s also sometimes possible to perform spot repairs. For instance, if granules are missing in a few places from something such as a blister pop, it’s possible to add roof mastic and sprinkle on granules, but this type of repair is not common.

Performing a Shingle Inspection

The asphalt shingle inspection actually starts on the ground.  Walk the home’s perimeter, and look in the yard for shingles or parts of a shingle that may have come off the roof.  If you find any, it’s likely that they’ve been blown off.  But, occasionally, they can find other ways of making it down to the ground.

If you find a shingle on the ground, you should look for missing shingles on the roof and check to see which components failed, why they failed, and the extent of the failure. Is the damage limited to a few shingles?  Have shingles on the whole roof failed in the same manner?  Or, is the failure limited to certain areas?

You can sometimes tell by looking at the shingle or shingles you find on the ground what you’re likely to find on the roof. For example, if you look closely at this shingle (pictured below), you can see that it was fastened with staples. The missing sections along the top are where this shingle tore loose from the staples that fastened the shingle in the course above.

improperly installed staples shingle 300x194 Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

If you look closely, you can see the marks left by the staples that held this shingle in place. The crowns of the staples should have been parallel to the length of the shingle but, as you can see, the installer rotated the staple gun as he fired, installing the staples at both ends at an improper angle. Once you climb onto the roof, you can expect to find shingles that were fastened with poorly installed staples.

shingle pullover Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

You can see that this shingle was fastened with nails that pulled through. The upper hole in this shingle was made by a nail that was hidden by the shingle in the course above.

The lower hole was made by a nail that was added after the roofing was installed and would have been visible. This is often a sign that the shingles are poorly bonded and needed additional fasteners to avoid losing shingles to blow-off. In this case, you’d want to be diligent in checking shingle bonding on the various roof slopes.

Looking On the Roof

Once you’re on the roof, walk each slope. You should start at the bottom and work your way up the roof, just to make sure that what you find hasn’t been caused by you. This is a possibility on older roofs with fragile shingles, and on new roofs with shingles which haven’t really had time to cure. Newly installed shingles can still be soft enough to damage easily, especially on hot days.

Checking Shingle Bonding

As you work, tug lightly at shingles in different areas to check the quality of the adhesive-strip bonding. Be sure to check areas subject to greater uplift, such as corners, rakes, just above the eaves, and on the downwind side of the ridge.

If shingle bonding is marginal, you don’t want to break the bond and give the wind the chance it’s been waiting for to start stripping shingles off the roof.

Pay attention to shingles that may have been shaded. They may be on a slope facing a direction that gets very little sun, or parts of the roof may be shaded by trees or mountain ridges, or other parts of the roof.

Also, pay attention to slopes that face the direction from which the prevailing winds blow. These slopes are the most likely areas to have suffered contamination from debris.

Shingle Fastening

If you find tabs on a shingle that lift easily make note. Tabs that lift easily are not a good thing, but this will allow you to be able to see the fastener type and placement.

It’s a good idea to avoid breaking any adhesive bonds at all.  But if you do, mark those shingles with chalk and, before you leave, hand-seal them using a caulking gun and roof cement.

If you find areas with missing shingles, pay attention to the fastener installation. If it’s incorrect, the problem may not be limited to that area.

If you find shingles on the ground, you can reconstruct the failure, assuming it was wind-related. This may help you to determine the potential for further damage.

1.  First, the adhesive bond failed, allowing tabs to lift, stressing them and putting additional stress on the shingles beneath the fasteners.
2.  Either the fasteners held the shingle in place, in which case you might expect to see creasing or tearing of the tab, or the shingle pulled over the fastener, indicating that the fasteners may not have been installed correctly.

3.  When shingle tabs bend or flex excessively, the adhesive strip of the shingles in the course above or to the sides may be affected. Check the shingles near the damaged areas to determine the full extent of the damage.

Shingle Problems

Continue to walk each slope until you’ve covered the entire roof. In addition to shingle bond and fastening, you should check for any problems related to the shingles’ manufacture, installation, appearance and design, and damage or deterioration from environmental or mechanical sources.

roof gauge Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

You can document the roof pitch accurately by checking it with a roof gauge.

shingle gauge Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

Using a shingle gauge to check shingle thickness will give you a good idea of the length of the warranty.

Check to see how many layers are installed, and note if more than one layer exists. If underlying layers are of a different roof-covering material, that information should also be remembered

roof edge gauges Roof Shingle Inspection and Individual Replacement

You can record all three conditions in one photo if you use the shingle and pitch gauges at the roof edge. You can also show whether edge metal is installed.

Flashing Problems

Check the roof for the proper installation and the condition of the flashing. You may need to look at the roof edges to see flashing that may be mostly hidden by shingles.

Underlayment Problems

If possible, confirm that the underlayment was properly installed.  Underlayment should be visible only at the roof edges. Your main concern is a roof with a pitch of less than 4:12.  The underlayment should be installed in such a way that it’s doubled under the entire roof.  If you discover any exposed underlayment, address the problem as soon as possible.