Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Life Expectancy Estimation Chart for Homes

Life expectancy estimations on homes have been determined through research and testing based on regular recommended maintenance and conditions of normal wear and tear, and not extreme weather (or other) conditions, neglect, over-use or abuse.  Therefore, they should be used as guidelines only, and not relied upon as guarantees or warranties. 

 
*********************************************************************** 

Surface preparation and paint quality are the most important determinants of a paint’s life expectancy. Ultraviolet (UV) rays via sunshine can shorten life expectancy.  Additionally, conditions of high humidity indoors or outdoors can affect the life span of these components, which is why they should be inspected and maintained seasonally.

ADHESIVES, CAULK & PAINTS
YEARS
Caulking (interior & exterior)
5 to 10
Construction Glue
20+
Paint (exterior)
7 to 10
Paint (interior)
10 to 15
Roofing Adhesives/Cements
15+
Sealants
8
Stains
3 to 8

Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences.

APPLIANCES      
YEARS
Air Conditioner (window)
5 to 7
Compactor (trash)
6
Dehumidifier
8
Dishwasher
9
Disposal (food waste)
12
Dryer Vent  (plastic)
5
Dryer Vent  (steel)
20
Dryer (clothes)
13
Exhaust Fans
10
Freezer
10 to 20
Gas Oven
10 to 18
Hand Dryer
10 to 12
Humidifier (portable)
8
Microwave Oven
9
Range/Oven Hood
14
Electric Range
13 to 15
Gas Range
15 to 17
Refrigerator
9 to 13
Swamp Cooler
5 to 15
Washing Machine
5 to 15
Whole-House Vacuum System
20
4397769906 5b81d7ab87 m Life Expectancy Estimation Chart for Homes

Tile 0 (Photo credit: tornatore)

Modern kitchens are larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.”

CABINETRY & STORAGE   
YEARS
Bathroom Cabinets
50+
Closet Shelves 100+
Entertainment Center/Home Office 10
Garage/Laundry Cabinets 70+
Kitchen Cabinets 50
Medicine Cabinet 25+
Modular (stock manufacturing-type)
50

Walls and ceilings last the full life span of the home.

CEILINGS & WALLS
YEARS
Acoustical Tile Ceiling
40+ (older than 25 years may contain asbestos)
Ceramic Tile
70+
Concrete
75+
Gypsum
75
Wood Paneling
20 to 50
Suspended Ceiling
25+

Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular, and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.

COUNTERTOPS
YEARS
Concrete
50
Cultured Marble
20
Natural Stone
100+
Laminate
20 to 30
Resin
10+
Tile
100+
Wood
100+

Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas, to relatively consistent, dry weather in others.

DECKS
YEARS 
Deck Planks
15
Composite
8 to 25
Structural Wood
10 to 30

Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. The gaskets/weatherstripping of exterior doors may have to be replaced every 5 to 8 years.

DOORS
YEARS
Closet (interior)
100+
Fiberglass (exterior)
100+
Fire-Rated Steel (exterior)
100+
French (interior)
30 to 50
Screen (exterior)
30
Sliding Glass/Patio (exterior)
20 (for roller wheel/track repair/replacement)
Vinyl (exterior) 20
Wood (exterior)
100+
Wood (hollow-core interior)
20 to 30
Wood (solid-core interior)
30 to 100+

Copper-plated wiring, copper-clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a life time, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls, such as dimmer switches, may need to be replaced after 10 years.  GFCIs could last 30 years, but much less if tripped regularly.

Remember that faulty, damaged or overloaded electrical circuits or equipment are the leading cause of house fires, so they should be inspected regularly and repaired or updated as needed.

ELECTRICAL
YEARS
Accessories
10+
Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs)
30
Bare Copper
100+
Bulbs (compact fluorescent)
8,000 to 10,000+ hours
Bulbs (halogen)
4,000 to 8,000+ hours
Bulbs (incandescent)
1,000 to 2,000+ hours
Bulbs (LED)
30,000 to 50,000+ hours
Copper-Clad Aluminum
100+
Copper-Plated
100+
Fixtures
40
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)
up to 30
Lighting Controls
30+
Residential Propane Backup Generators
12
Service Panel
60
Solar Panels
20 to 30
Solar System Batteries
3 to 12
Wind Turbine Generators
20

Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.

ENGINEERED LUMBER
YEARS
Engineered Joists
80+
Laminated Strand Lumber
100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber
80+
Trusses
100+

 

Fastener manufacturers do not give life spans for their products because they vary too much based on where the fasteners are installed in a home, the materials in which they’re installed, and the local climate and environment.  However, inspectors can use the guidelines below to make educated judgments about the materials they inspect.

FASTENERS, CONNECTORS & STEEL
YEARS
Adjustable Steel Columns
50+
Fasteners (bright)
25 to 60
Fasteners (copper)
65 to 80+
Fasteners (galvanized)
10+
Fasteners (electro-galvanized)
15 to 45
Fasteners (hot-dipped galvanized)
35 to 60
Fasteners (stainless)
65 to 100+
Steel Beams
200+
Steel Columns 100+
Steel Plates
100+

Flooring life is dependent on maintenance and the amount of foot traffic the floor endures.

FLOORING
YEARS
All Wood Floors
100+
Bamboo
100+
Brick Pavers
100+
Carpet
8 to 10
Concrete
50+
Engineered Wood
50+
Exotic Wood
100+
Granite
100+
Laminate
15 to 25
Linoleum
25
Marble
100+
Other Domestic Wood
100+
Slate
100
Terrazzo
75+
Tile
75 to 100
Vinyl
25

Concrete and poured-block footings and foundations will last a life time, assuming they were properly built.  Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks, it is immediately damaged.

FOUNDATIONS
YEARS
Baseboard Waterproofing System
50
Bituminous-Coating Waterproofing
10
Concrete Block
100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)
100
Post and Pier
20 to 65
Post and Tensioned Slab on Grade
100+
Poured-Concrete Footings and Foundation
100+
Slab on Grade (concrete)
100
Wood Foundation
5 to 40
Permanent Wood Foundation (PWF; treated)
75

Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a life time.

FRAMING
YEARS
Log
80 to 200
Poured-Concrete Systems
100+
Steel
100+
Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
100+
Timber Frame
100+

The quality and frequency of use will affect the longevity of garage doors and openers.

GARAGES
YEARS
Garage Doors
20 to 25
Garage Door Openers
10 to 15

Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies and may have to be upgraded due to evolution in technology.

HOME TECHNOLOGY
YEARS
Built-In Audio
20
Carbon Monoxide Detectors* 5
Door Bells
45
Home Automation System
5 to 50
Intercoms
20
Security System
5 to 20
Smoke/Heat Detectors*
less than 10
Wireless Home Networks
5 to ?

* Batteries should be changed at least annually.

Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.

HVAC
YEARS
Air Conditioner (central)
7 to 15
Air Exchanger
15
Attic Fan
15 to 25
Boiler
40
Burner
10+
Ceiling Fan
5 to 10
Condenser
8 to 20
Dampers
20+
Dehumidifier
8
Diffusers, Grilles and Registers
25
Ducting
60 to 100
Electric Radiant Heater
40
Evaporator Cooler
15 to 25
Furnace
15 to 25
Gas Fireplace
15 to 25
Heat Exchanger
10 to 15
Heat Pump
10 to 15
Heat-Recovery Ventilator
20
Hot-Water and Steam-Radiant Boiler
40
Humidifier
12
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
10 to 15
Chimney Cap (concrete)
100+
Chimney Cap (metal)
10 to 20
Chimney Cap (mortar)
15
Chimney Flue Tile
40 to 120
Thermostats
35
Ventilator 7

As long as they are not punctured, cut or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass and foam insulation materials will last a life time. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose-fill, housewrap or batts/rolls.

INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS
YEARS
Batts/Rolls
100+
Black Paper (felt paper)
15 to 30
Cellulose
100+
Fiberglass
100+
Foamboard
100+
Housewrap
80+
Liquid-Applied Membrane
50
Loose-Fill
100+
Rock Wool
100+
Wrap Tape
80+

Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys and brick veneers can last the life time of a home.

MASONRY & CONCRETE   
YEARS
Brick
100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (hybrid block)
100+
Concrete Masonry Units (CMUs)
100+
Man-Made Stone
25
Masonry Sealant
2 to 20
Stone
100+
Stucco/EIFS
50+
Veneer
100+

Custom millwork and stair parts will last a life time and are typically only upgraded for aesthetic reasons.

MOLDING, MILLWORK & TRIM
YEARS
Attic Stairs (pull-down)
50
Custom Millwork
100+
Pre-Built Stairs
100+
Stair Parts
100+
Stairs
100+

The life time of any wood product depends heavily on moisture intrusion.

PANELS
YEARS
Flooring Underlayment
25
Hardboard
40
Particleboard
60
Plywood
100
Softwood
30
Oriented Strand Board (OSB)
60
Wall Panels
100+

The quality of plumbing fixtures varies dramatically.  The mineral content of water can shorten the life expectancy of water heaters and clog showerheads.  Also, some finishes may require special maintenance with approved cleaning agents per the manufacturers in order to last their expected service lives.

PLUMBING, FIXTURES & FAUCETS
YEARS
ABS and PVC Waste Pipe
50 to 80
Accessible/ADA Handles
100+
Acrylic Kitchen Sink
50
Cast-Iron Bathtub
100
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (above ground)
60
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (below ground)
50 to 60
Concrete Waste Pipe
100+
Copper Water Lines
70
Enameled Steel Kitchen Sink
5 to 10+
Faucets and Spray Hose
15 to 20
Fiberglass Bathtub and Shower
20
Gas Lines (black steel)
75
Gas Lines (flex)
30
Hose Bibs
20 to 30
Instant (on-demand) Water Heater
10
PEX 40
Plastic Water Lines
75
Saunas/Steam Room
15 to 20
Sewer Grinder Pump
10
Shower Enclosure/Module
50
Shower Doors
20
Showerheads
100+ (if not clogged by mineral/other deposits)
Soapstone Kitchen Sink
100+
Sump Pump
7
Toilet Tank Components
5
Toilets, Bidets and Urinals
100+
Vent Fan (ceiling)
5 to 10
Vessel Sink (stone, glass, porcelain, copper)
5 to 20+
Water Heater (conventional)
6 to 12
Water Line (copper)
50
Water Line (plastic)
50
Well Pump
15
Water Softener
20
Whirlpool Tub
20 to 50

Radon systems have but one moving part:  the radon fan.

RADON SYSTEMS
YEARS
Air Exchanger
15
Barometric Backdraft Damper/Fresh-Air Intake
20
Caulking
5 to 10
Labeling
25
Manometer
15
Piping
50+
Radon Fan
5 to 8

The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance.  Hot climates drastically reduce asphalt shingle life.  Roofs in areas that experience severe weather, such as hail, tornadoes and/or hurricanes may also experience a shorter-than-normal lifespan overall or may incur isolated damage that requires repair in order to ensure the service life of the surrounding roofing materials.

ROOFING
YEARS
Aluminum Coating
3 to 7
Asphalt Shingles (3-tab)
20
Asphalt (architectural)
30
BUR (built-up roofing)
30
Cellulose Fiber
20
Clay/Concrete
100+
Coal and Tar
30
Copper
70+
EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) Rubber
15 to 25
Fiber Cement
25
Green (vegetation-covered)
5 to 40
Metal
40 to 80
Modified Bitumen
20
Simulated Slate
10 to 35
Slate
60 to 150
TPO
7 to 20
Wood
30

Outside siding materials typically last a life time.  Some exterior components may require protection through appropriate paints or sealants, as well as regular maintenance.  Also, while well-maintained and undamaged flashing can last a long time, it is their connections that tend to fail, so seasonal inspection and maintenance are strongly recommended.

SIDINGS, FLASHING & ACCESSORIES
YEARS
Aluminum Siding
25 to 40+
Aluminum Gutters, Downspouts, Soffit and Fascia
20 to 40+
Asbestos Shingle
100
Brick
100+
Cementitious
100+
Copper Downspouts
100
Copper Gutters
50+
Engineered Wood
100+
Fiber Cement
100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
20
Manufactured Stone
100+
Stone
100+
Stucco/EIFS
50+
Trim
25
Vinyl Siding 60
Vinyl Gutters and Downspouts
25+
Wood/Exterior Shutters 20

Site and landscaping elements have life expectancies that vary dramatically.

SITE & LANDSCAPING
YEARS
American Red Clay
100+
Asphalt Driveway
15 to 20
Brick and Concrete Patio
15 to 25
Clay Paving
100+
Concrete Walks
40 to 50
Controllers
15
Gravel Walks
4 to 6
Mulch
1 to 2
Polyvinyl Fencing 100+
Sprinkler Heads 10 to 14
Underground PVC Piping 60+
Valves
20
Wood Chips
1 to 5
Wood Fencing
20

Swimming pools are comprised of many systems and components, all with varying life expectancies.

SWIMMING POOLS
YEARS
Concrete Shell
25+
Cover
7
Diving Board
10
Filter and Pump
10
Interior Finish
10 to 35
Vinyl Liner
10
Pool Water Heater
8
Waterline Tile
15+

Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.

WINDOWS
YEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum-Clad
15 to 20
Double-Pane
8 to 20
Skylights
10 to 20
Window Glazing 10+
Vinyl Windows
20 to 40
Wood
30+

Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials.  This list should be used only as a general guideline and not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any appliance, product, system or component.

 Life Expectancy Estimation Chart for Homes

Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

Fire extinguisher maintenance and inspection should be performed regularly.

A fire extinguisher is a device commonly found indoors and is used to douse a fire and prevent its spread.

A fire extinguisher is a small metal canister that contains compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated, propel a directed spray of flame-retardant chemicals. A fire extinguisher is only effective if building occupants understand where and why they are used for fire safety.

Fire Extinguisher Classes

 fire classes 234x300 Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

A fire extinguisher is distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

“A” class – Fires that result from ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.
“B” class – Fires that result from combustible liquids, such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease.
“C” class – Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator.
“D” class – Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments.
“K” class – These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.
*Note* Although, technically, the letter rankings listed above refer to fire types, these symbols can also be used to identify the extinguishers themselves. For instance, an extinguisher that uses CO2 can be called a “CO2 extinguisher” or a “BC extinguisher.”

Fire Extinguisher Types

No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire. Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied. To prevent confusion, a fire extinguisher is classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common fire extinguisher types are listed below:

Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher 

There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical. One is called “multi-purpose dry chemical” and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on “A,” “B,” and “C” class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals and offices. Sodium bicarbonate is used in the fire extinguisher known as “regular dry chemical,” which are capable of handling “B” and “C” class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

Carbon Dioxide Fire Extinguisher

This type of fire extinguisher contains liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against “B” and “C” class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

Water Fire Extinguisher

These extinguishers are most suited for “A” class fires. However, they cannot be used in “B,” “C” or “D” class fires. In “B” and “D” class fires, the water will spread the flames. In a “C” class fire, the water is conductive and poses a risk of electric shock to the operator. However, the misting nozzle of a “Water Mist” extinguisher breaks up the stream of deionized water so that there is no conductive path back to the operator. Since the agent used is water, this type of fire extinguisher is inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

Wet Chemical Fire Extinguisher

These devices are designed to combat “K” class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in “A” class fires.

Inspection of Fire Extinguisher

You should:

  • check that a portable fire extinguisher exists within a 30-foot travel distance of commercial-type cooking equipment that uses cooking oil or animal fat.
  • check that a portable fire extinguisher is within 75-feet of travel on every floor.
  • check for the presence of portable extinguishers, and determine that they are located in conspicuous and readily available locations immediately available for use, and not obstructed or obscured from view.
  • confirm that access to the fire extinguisher is not obstructed.
  • make sure that the hose (if so equipped) is intact and not obstructed.
  • make sure the pressure dial on the fire extinguisher reads in the green or “charged” area. It should also be clear and readable.
  • check that the pull pin is securely fastened within the handle and held in place by the tamper seal.
  • check for visible dents or cracks in the extinguisher body.
  • check that the fire extinguisher is in its proper location and mounted correctly.
  • check for modifications that might reduce the extinguisher’s functionality.
  • make sure that the fire extinguisher has a label and that is is legible.

Do not do the following:

  • test fire extinguishers.
  • determine the adequate number of fire extinguishers needed or their ratings.
  • ignite or extinguish fires.

Fire Extinguisher Testing and Replacement

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that a fire extinguisher should be tested every twelve years or five years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, “hydrostatic,” is conducted underwater where the cylinders of the fire extinguisher are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed, while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, a fire extinguisher should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

a. where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
b. where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked or nicked.
c. where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or nameband assembly.
d. where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
e. where a calcium chloride-type of fire extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
f. where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
g. where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
h. where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
i. where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.fire extinguisher tags Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

When should a fire extinguisher be used?

Small fires can be controlled through the use of a household or commercial fire extinguisher. A household fire extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a homeowner can potentially control a blaze long enough with a fire extinguisher for firefighters to arrive. A fire extinguisher should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of fire extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger.   If the operation of a fire  extinguisher will place building occupants in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

What is on an extinguisher’s label? You’ll find:

  • essential information about the types of fires they can combat. Newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters serve the same purpose.
  • a numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class “A” and “B”).
  • instructions for the fire extinguisher operation.
  • a tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.

Does a fire extinguisher expire?

A fire extinguisher can expire and they do this for a few different reasons. One common way is that, over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. A fire extinguishers that has lost much of it’s pressure will not operate. Pressure within an fire extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. “ABC” class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Homeowners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if a fire extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of a fire extinguisher, it is advisable to replace or recharge any questionable fire extinguisher.

A fire extinguishers is classified based on it’s chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of a fire extinguisher combats what type of fire.  A Fire extinguisher is a critical indoor component that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

//
//

Home Inspection and Energy Efficiency

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

With all the attention being given to green building over the past few years, home inspectors have been looking for a way to tap into this interest. A lot of people are wondering what’s included in a green home inspection. In order to answer that question, we need to return to fundamentals.

Berm home Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

Above:  an earth berm home

What is Green Building?

Green building is a general term describing the features of a home that relate to:

  1. energy efficiency;
  2. the use of sustainable materials and/or practices; and
  3. the features of a home that promote human and environmental health.

Existing Home Inspection Standards

The current InterNACHI Standards of Practice takes these issues into account to a certain degree, but the term “green” home inspection implies that the inspection will be expanded past the residential Standards of Practice to include the three items listed above. Let’s look at each of these issues in turn as it applies to a green home inspection.

Energy Efficiency

A typical home inspection is not designed to provide information about the efficiency with which a home uses energy.  Home energy use is related to the materials and methods used in green home building, its design, and the efficiency of the appliances installed.

During the course of a typical home inspection, an inspector might find a condition which could lead to excessive energy consumption, such as a furnace that is short-cycling. A home inspector should mention short-cycling because it indicates a need for service of a major home appliance. Excessive energy consumption would be a secondary consideration. This decreases the energy efficiency of the home.

Inspectors would not usually comment on what passive or active solar energy systems are installed in a home, or evaluate the effectiveness of the home’s design in saving energy. Home inspectors don’t usually look at home energy bills for the past year, or measure the energy consumption of major appliances, or perform blower-door testing to determine the extent of air leakage through the building envelope hurting the home energy efficiency.

These actions are usually included in an energy audit, not a home inspection. An energy auditor uses different tools and has a different set of skills than a home inspector.

Dual flush Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

Dual flush CU Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

Above:  a dual-flush toilet

Sustainable Materials and Practices

Sustainable materials and building practices are those that encourage environmental responsibility and resource efficiency throughout the life cycle of a building.

Sustainable materials are generally low-energy materials. “Low-energy” means that producing the material and delivering it to the job site took less energy than conventional building materials. A common practice in green home building is the use of sustainable materials.

For example, aluminum, by contrast, is high-energy material requiring extensive energy to mine, refine, combine, and otherwise turn into building products and deliver them to a job site. An example of low-energy building material, on the other hand, is the soil found on the job site that is used to build a rammed-earth home.

Another sustainable material is the wood from fast-growing trees where forests harvested for construction materials are replenished at a rate equal to or greater than the harvest rate.

An example of a green home building sustainable practice would be the use of water-conserving devices in a home, such as low-volume flush toilets and water-conserving showerheads.

Although home inspection training typically does not address these practices and materials, it is possible for an inspector to identify the fact that they exist in a home.

Solar thermal Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

Above:  solar thermal (hot water)

Human and Environmental Health

Certain features of homes are kinder to human health than others. Carpet may be comfortable to walk on, but it also catches and holds dust, dirt and other particulates, including allergens.

Concrete driveways and walks help keep dirt out of the home, but they prevent precipitation from soaking into the ground and recharging aquifers.

What’s an Inspector To Do?

So, what services can home inspectors provide to clients who want a green home evaluated while keeping these three issues in mind?

First, inspectors can get additional training to become qualified as energy auditors.  This is still an area ripe for growth for inspectors.

PV Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection

Above:  a photovoltaic array

Inspectors can learn to identify and confirm green building features in a home. If a seller claims that the home has a photovoltaic system installed, and that the kitchen cabinets are made from low VOC (volatile organic compounds)-emitting materials, inspectors can confirm that. Photovoltaic systems are easy to recognize, but what about claims of low VOC-emitting materials?  For claims that can’t be visually confirmed, sellers must produce documentation proving their claims of green home building materials.

Confirmation of green building features is an ancillary service that home inspectors can offer at little additional cost. You won’t be evaluating system performance or it’s energy efficiency – just confirming that certain green home building features are installed at the property, according to the claims of the seller. You don’t need to invest in expensive tools, and you don’t need to make a special trip, but you can fill a special niche and add to your bottom line.


 Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection
 Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspectionlogo234 60 geekzones 20110324 Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection
 Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection 468.60 Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection Energy Efficiency Green Home Inspection
//
//