Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Manufactured Stone Damage

Manufactured stone is a lightweight, man-made concrete masonry product that is typically cast into random sizes in a variety of colors and finishes meant to mimic the look of quarried rock.  It is generally applied as a masonry veneer to exterior and interior walls, columns and landscape structures.

Manufactured stone, sometimes referred to as precast stone and simulated stone, is technically called adhered manufactured stone masonry veneer (AMSMV).  Cultured Stone®, a name that is sometimes used generically, is actually a masonry product manufactured by Owens Corning, and is probably the most popular manufactured stone used in the U.S. manufactured stone Manufactured Stone Damage

Inspectors are likely to come across manufactured stone during inspections, and will want to be familiar with the details of this building material, as well as some of the problems associated with it.  Water damage due to incorrect installation is a significant area of concern, and inspectors and homeowners alike can benefit from knowing how this can occur.

Manufactured Stone vs. Cast Stone

Manufactured stone is often referred to by many different names.  While in most instances, the various names can be used interchangeably, manufactured stone is not synonymous with cast stone.  Manufactured stone is a different product entirely.  Cast stone is a refined architectural concrete building unit whose appearance is meant to simulate quarried stone, but is generally built into a load-bearing masonry wall system.  This is a different purpose from the lightweight veneer created with manufactured stone.  These two products are manufactured according to different standards and are intended for different applications, although they are often confused with each other.

Pros and Cons

Manufactured stone provides some benefits over quarried rock.  However, there are some important concerns to be aware of.

Advantages

  • Although manufactured stone is basically nothing more complicated than standard cement, the molding and coloring process allows for it to be made almost indistinguishable from real quarried stone.  It can be molded and colored to look like a wide variety of different stone facings.
  • As a lightweight veneer, manufactured stone allows the aesthetic of a real stone structure to be achieved simply and cost-effectively.
  • Manufactured stone veneer can be applied to wood frame, masonry and metal structures, and does not require foundational support.
  • When properly installed and maintained, manufactured stone is extremely durable and will last for many years.

Disadvantages

  • Proper installation is absolutely critical with this product.  Incorrect installation of manufactured stone veneer on an exterior wall can lead to serious damage from water penetration, occurring even over a relatively short period of time.  There have been reports of serious foundation rotting due to improperly installed veneers in homes less than two years old.
  • Though the pigment used to color the manufactured stone is generally durable and will not fade, de-icing salts, harsh chemicals, cleaning solvents and paint thinners can cause discoloration and staining.
  • It has been reported that manufactured stone used around swimming pools can be discolored by chlorine.

Water Damage

Similar to what has become a common problem with synthetic stucco, improper installation of manufactured stone veneer on exterior walls has lead to serious concern about water damage.  Improper flashing and drainage details behind the veneer are often the culprit, just like with synthetic stucco, but the damage with manufactured stone can often be more severe. cultured stone house Manufactured Stone Damage  This is because, unlike synthetic stucco, manufactured stone is not installed with an air space between the cladding and the framed wall.  When the veneer is saturated with water during a rainstorm, it holds rainwater right up against the framed wall.  With little drainage or drying space, housewrap (or building paper) and flashing have a harder time diverting the moisture.  If care is not taken during installation to cover every detail properly, serious water damage may result under relatively normal weather and seasonal conditions.

Manufactured stone veneers share many similar concerns with synthetic stucco.  Proper seams at windows and doors are important, and building paper or housewrap must be lapped correctly in order to keep water diverted from the framed wall.  Window pan flashings can be helpful if correctly installed.  Bottom terminations of manufactured stone veneer are best equipped with weep screeds of some kind in order to avoid the pooling of water at the lowest points, which can cause those areas to stay continuously wet.  The tops of windows and door openings are also spots that will benefit from weep screeds.

Another issue can arise when manufactured stone is paired up with a different material on the same wall.  Synthetic stucco, for example, is often installed on part of a wall, with the rest of the wall covered with manufactured stone.  Water will penetrate to the wood-frame wall and cause damage if the seam between the two claddings is not properly managed during installation.

Inspection Tips

The most important thing to look for when inspecting an exterior wall clad in manufactured stone is correct installation.  Even if there is no visible water damage, steps must be taken to guard against it.  Here are some things inspectors can keep in mind when examining these walls.

  • The base of wood-frame walls need weep screeds, as do the tops of windows and door openings.
  • In order to avoid water penetration at the seams at windows, doors and adjacent trim, as well as at seams and joints where manufactured stone meets another form of cladding, these seams should be sealed. Corrosion-resistant flashing with a drip edge should be installed with a bedding seal included under the flashing.  A water-resistant barrier should lap over the back edge of the flashing for positive drainage.  A piece of manufactured stone veneer with an edge that slopes away from the building is also beneficial for use here.
  • In order to ensure proper drainage and to avoid the possibility of termites tunneling through it, the veneer should not be in contact with the ground or pavement.
  • The veneer should not be in contact with roofing materials.
  • If the veneer has been installed correctly, there will be nothing other than mortar visible between the stones.
  • Kick-out flashings should be installed everywhere they are needed, and should divert water away from the manufactured stone veneer and the building in general.  If proper detailing and flashing are not installed, water may penetrate the cladding and cause structural damage from rotting.
  • The manufacturer’s instructions for the particular AMSMV product installed should always be followed by the installer.

Manufactured stone is growing in popularity, and as inspectors encounter it more frequently, they are also likely to see problems related to water damage.  Inspectors who know more about this will be able to answer their clients’ questions and identify potential issues during an inspection.

 Manufactured Stone Damage


 Manufactured Stone Damage

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 Manufactured Stone Damage

Roof Moisture Problems

Roof Moisture 300x224 Roof Moisture ProblemsRoof Moisture Problems

The primary purpose of the roof-covering material is to keep moisture out of the home. Too much roof moisture in the home can cause a number of problems.

Material Damage From Roof Moisture: Decay, Corrosion and Leakage

Roof moisture can damage many different kinds of materials commonly found in homes. In a granular material such as drywall, water is absorbed into the spaces between the particles, reducing the material’s strength.

This is why ceiling drywall sags when it becomes saturated from roof moisture issues.

In cellulose-based products such as wood, wood rot (which is properly called wood decay) can take place when material moisture levels reach about 20%. Since most houses are wood structures, decay can be a significant problem, especially if it continues undetected for a long time.

Corrosion is another concern. Most of the metal fasteners and connectors that hold roof framing together are made of metal, making them vulnerable to damage from corrosion due to roof moisture.

Because roofs may leak into attics or the interiors of walls, evidence of roof moisture leakage is not always visible.

Human Health and Roof Moisture

Human health is another concern with roof moisture issues. Mold is caused by fungi which become active at about 20% moisture level.  Mold fungi reproduce by releasing microscopic spores into the indoor air, which can cause health problems if they’re inhaled.

The immune systems of healthy people are usually able to handle elevated levels of mold spores. People with asthma, allergies, lung disease, or compromised immune systems can develop serious or fatal fungal infections.

Comfort Levels in Your Home

Higher relative humidity inside a home is perceived by people as heat. This is why 85° F in Biloxi, Mississippi, where the air is very humid, will feel hotter than 85° F in Death Valley, where the air is very dry. In fact, in Death Valley,  85° F will feel cool.

The same holds true for the inside of your home. If the air inside your home is humid because a roof leak from roof moisture has allowed moisture intrusion, during the cooling season, comfort levels will be lower and cooling costs will be higher, since the air conditioner will be running more often.

During the heating season, dry is more comfortable than damp.

Forms of Roof Moisture

The types of roof moisture problems commonly found in homes can vary with the type of climate in which the home is located. Homes located in hot and humid climates, such as Key West, Florida, and in cold and dry climates, such as Steamboat Springs, Colorado, will often experience moisture in different forms, as well as different types of roof moisture problems.

Solid Roof Moisture Examples

Ice and snow are examples of roof moisture as a solid. As water turns to ice, it expands by about 10%, creating a powerful force that can crack materials that are too brittle to flex. As ice, moisture can form dams that cause melt-water to back up beneath roofing materials and cause leaks. Efforts to remove ice dams may damage roof-covering materials.

As snow, it adds weight to roofs and holds moisture against the roof.

Liquid Form of Roof Moisture

As a liquid, water falls down from the sky, bounces upward from the surfaces it hits, and moves in unexpected directions — sideways, backward and upward — as when roof drainage is dammed by blockages or absorbed by materials.

Gas

Water in the form of a gas is called “moisture vapor” and consists of microscopic droplets suspended in the air. These droplets can be carried through very small openings by air currents.

Cooking, bathing, washing clothes, even human respiration all put moisture into indoor air. All the water used to water plants will eventually wind up in indoor air. If this water vapor has no easy route to the home’s exterior, comfort levels and air quality can suffer.

Moisture vapor created in the home can be absorbed by the roof deck. The roof moisture  causes it to expand and buckle shingles as the spaces between sheathing panels become smaller.

Moisture vapor can also enter the home from outside. Improper attic or roof venting practices can cause roof moisture from hot, humid, outdoor air to condense on the roof framing. This condensation can then be moved into the home by gravity and the gradient forces we’re about to discuss.

Moisture Movement

A number of different forces can affect the ways that moisture moves from one place to another.

Roof Moisture and Gravity

The most obvious force is gravity. Water moves downhill. Gravity can create problems, such as when it tries to move moisture past roofing materials protecting a home interior.  Or, it can help prevent them, such as when it moves water quickly off of a steep roof.

Roof Moisture Gradients

Other forces that move moisture include several gradients. A “gradient” is the movement of something across an area of difference. Gradients are named according to the force that causes the movement.

Thermal Gradient

According to the “thermal” gradient, moisture is moved by differences in temperature. Moisture moves from warm areas toward cold areas.

Roof moisture on a warm, wet roof will try to migrate toward a cool, air-conditioned home interior.

Pressure Gradient

The “pressure” gradient describes the tendency of moisture, often in the form of vapor, to move from areas of high air pressure to areas of low air pressure.

Air pressure inside a home can be lowered by whole-house fans, exhaust fans in dryers, bathrooms and kitchens, or by the combustion exhaust systems of furnaces, boilers and hot water heaters.

All of these devices push indoor air to the outside. If it’s humid outside, this condition can draw moisture-laden air into the home.

Concentration Gradient

The “concentration” gradient describes the tendency of moisture to move from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration. In other words, moisture moves from wet areas toward dry areas.

Thanks to

Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko

Building Orientation for Optimum Energy

Building orientation is the practice of facing a building so as to maximize certain aspects of its surroundings, such as street appeal, to capture a scenic view, for drainage considerations, etc. With rising energy costs, it’s becoming increasingly important for building orientation to capitalize on the Sun’s free energy.

building orientation sun Building Orientation for Optimum Energy

For developers and builders, building orientation of a new home to take advantage of the warmth of the Sun will increase the home’s appeal and marketability.  For homeowners, building orientation will increase their indoor comfort and reduce their energy bills.

Thus, building orientation, along with day-lighting and thermal mass, are crucial considerations of passive solar construction that can be incorporated into virtually any new home design.

Facts and Figures about Building Orientation

  • Many older homes’ designs were oriented through the use of a heliodon, which is a moveable light source used to mimic the Sun’s path that hovered over a small-scale model of a proposed building. Today, mathematical computer models calculate location-specific solar gain and seasonal thermal performance with precision, and have the added ability to rotate and animate a 3D color graphic model of a proposed building orientation design in relation to the Sun’s path.
  • Homeowners may now tap into a specialty market of homes designed to spin on their axis in order to follow the hourly and seasonal path of the Sun. These UFO-shaped homes can spin a full 360 degrees in minutes and are built with unusually tall ceilings and windows for maximum efficiency in powering their solar energy system.
  • While some passive solar features are relatively recent innovations, the practice of orienting a home to the path of the Sun is as old as civilization itself. Examples are numerous, from south-facing doors on Neolithic and ancient Ming Dynasty houses, to the astonishing Pueblo ruins in southwestern Colorado.

The Sun’s True Position and building orientationsolar north Building Orientation for Optimum Energy

Schoolchildren (and most homeowners) will tell you that the Sun rises in the east and sets in the west, and, if this were true, building orientation would be a fairly simple matter. In reality, the sun rises and sets in the east and west only on the autumnal and vernal equinoxes, and something very different happens during the remaining 363 days of the year. The Earth’s tilt causes the Sun to rise and set slightly south of east and west in the winter, and slightly north of east and west in the summer.  This slight angle depends on the time of year and the observer’s distance from the equator.

As a result, the winter sun spends all of its time in the southern sky, and the summer sun spends all of its time in the northern sky. In the Southern Hemisphere, all of these directions are reversed, so the winter sun rises and sets in the northeast and northwest, respectively, and the summer sun rises and sets in the southeast and southwest, respectively.

How the Sun’s Variations in Position Can Affect Building Orientation and Design

The relative position of the Sun is a major factor in heat gain in buildings, which makes accurate building orientation of the building a fundamental consideration in passive solar construction.

Most importantly, a rectangular house’s ridgeline should run east-west to maximize the length of the southern side, which should also incorporate several windows in its design. For this reason, fewer windows should be located on the northern side of the house, where the summer sun can be intense. A deep roof overhang can shade the few windows in this area, as can different types of shade trees and bushes. Research supports an east-west ridge-line.  Homes re-oriented toward the Sun without any additional solar features save between 10% and 20% and some can save up to 40% on home heating, according to the Bonneville Power Administration and the City of San Jose, California.

Builders should note that these directions are given in reference to the Sun and not magnetic north, which can vary significantly from the Sun’s actual position. Magnetic north, as read from a compass, can still be used as a reference if the builder adjusts the figure based on the location-specific magnetic variation, which can be found in publicly available maps.

Building Tips for New Construction and Building Orientation

The following tips will also assist homeowners and builders in maximizing heat gain through building orientation:

  • Orient the floor plan – not merely the building’s profile – toward the Sun. Design the home so that frequently used rooms, such as the kitchen and living room, are on the southern side. Occupants will appreciate the sunrays in the winter and relief from the sun in the summer. Patios and decks should be built on the south side of the house, where direct sunlight will permit their use for more hours during the day and more days during the year. Likewise, the garage, laundry room and other areas that are less frequently used should be situated at the northern part of the house, where they will act as buffers against cold winter winds.

orientation floor plan Building Orientation for Optimum Energy

 

  • Beware of mountains. The north/south sun differential is exaggerated in hilly and mountainous regions, where significant climatic differences can be seen over comparatively small areas. A passive solar house should be constructed on the south-facing slope of a mountain to avoid the extreme shading created where the low-angled sun is blocked by the mountain on the north side. Halfway up the slope is ideal, as the mountain’s peak is exposed to strong winds, while cold night-time air flows into the underlying valley, which is also a natural drainage point.slope effect Building Orientation for Optimum Energy
  • Plan for tree shade. Trees are an important factor in passive solar design because they can both provide needed shade on a balmy summer day and starve the house of natural light when it is needed most. Deciduous trees planted on the south side will lose their leaves in the winter and allow natural light to enter the house, while evergreen trees planted on the north side will provide shade from the summer sun. Builders should carefully consider the age, species, growth rate and mature canopy cover of existing trees before deciding where to orient a structure on a building lot. Trees also pose unique danger.
  • Install as many windows as possible, but not too many! The exact number of windows required is different for each house because it’s based on – among other considerations – the local climate.  A “sun-tempered” house should include enough glazing to equal 5% of the conditioned square footage of the house. Remember, though, that windows allow heat transfer more easily than walls, so too many windows can actually drain heat from the house during the cold winter months. Read articles on Window Gas Fills and Window Films to learn how to insulate a house’s glazing.
  • Stray from the rule on east-west building orientation, if needed. The east-west building orientation of the ridge-line may be adjusted to accommodate other factors by up to 20 degrees with only a minimal impact on heat gain.
  • Driveways can get hot! Driveways and parking lots are made using gravel and asphalt – materials that heat up faster and reach higher temperatures than the rest of the yard. Excessive heat there can spill over to the adjacent house, which is why placement of the driveway or parking lot to the south or east of the building can reduce summer heat buildup in southern climates. During the cold winter months in northern climates, a south- or west-oriented driveway will melt snow faster and provide the home with greater warmth.
  • Glass need not be vertical. Custom glass is available that may be tilted to match the angle of the sun and minimize reflection. Angling glass away from the vertical makes it less insulative, however, so builders should balance potential gains in sun exposure with loss of heat to the outdoors.
  • Another environmental factor that should be considered in the equation of building orientation and positioning is prevailing winds, which are the winds that blow predominantly from a single, general direction over a particular point. Data for these winds can be used to design a building that can take advantage of summer breezes for passive cooling, as well as shield against adverse winds that can further chill the interior on an already cold winter day, or even prevent snow from piling up against windows and doors. Detailed information about prevailing winds for specific locations are plotted in a graphic tool called a wind rose, which is usually available from airports, larger libraries, Internet sources, and county agricultural extension offices. As a general rule of thumb, cold winter winds generally come from the north and west, which can be limited by using insulating glazing on these sides of the house. Also, remember that coastal areas typically experience breezes from an onshore direction, while cool breezes flow down valleys from mountain slopes.

Ultimately, factors such as street appeal and the property’s lot dimensions may restrict a builder’s ability for proper building orientation in strict accordance with passive solar techniques. Even while working under these constraints, however, a builder can still create an energy-efficient home through the implementation of energy-saving features, such as low-E windows, adequate insulation, air sealing, and cool roofs.

Building orientation to the path of the Sun will require less energy for heating and cooling the home, resulting in lower energy bills and increased indoor comfort.  Homeowners who are considering new builds should consult a builder to discuss ways to maximize low-cost and no-cost energy strategies with good building orientation .