Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Window Gas Fills

Window Gas Fills: What Consumers Should Know

Improvements in window design are an important step toward reducing overall energy costs, as heat gain and loss through windows account for up to half of a home’s heating and cooling needs, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Gas fills, as well as other efficient or green window features, such as low-E coatings and Heat Mirror® insulating glass, help plug “thermal holes” in the building envelope.

When used in conjunction with low-E coatings, gas-filled window units can yield incredibly high R-values, so they make a good choice for retrofitting a home to enhance its overall energy efficiency.  Consumers can educate themselves on the benefits of multi-paned gas-filled windows, and home inspectors who perform energy audits and/or thermal imaging inspections can help their clients determine whether a retrofit with this type of window is a cost-effective upgrade.

What are Window Gas Fills?

Gas fills are special gases pumped inside insulated glass units (double- and triple-paned window assemblies also known as IGUs) to improve their thermal efficiency. These viscous, slow-moving gases (typically, argon and krypton) allow for less convection than would ordinary air, minimizing convective currents within the window and reducing the transfer of heat across the window. Argon Window Gas Fills Homeowners may be able to tell if a building’s windows are gas-filled by checking the specifications on the original work order or the window tag, which is typically found along the bottom inside track of the window. Two small holes may also be observed along the spacer — one where the gas entered the unit and the other for air to exit.

Argon and krypton are the gas fills used most often by window manufacturers to displace the air between the panels in windows. Argon, which comprises slightly less than 1% of the Earth’s atmosphere, is non-toxic, inert, clear and odorless. Its thermal conductivity is roughly 67% that of air and it’s inexpensive, making it an attractive gas fill.

Krypton shares many qualities with its fellow noble gas argon, except that it’s an even better insulator, albeit more expensive to produce. When cost and functionality are considered, argon is a more efficient thermal barrier per dollar spent, especially in the larger ½-inch (11mm to 13mm) gaps between double-paned windows. Krypton is more commonly used in the tighter ¼-inch to 3/8-inch (6mm to 9mm) gaps within triple-paned windows. A mixture of krypton, argon and oxygen gases is sometimes used to reconcile performance and price, and occasionally xenon and nitrogen are used, as well.

 

Window Gas Leaks

 

Gas-filled windows will leak over time — as much as 1% per year, according to some estimates — depending on the quality of the window and its installation, the building’s climate, including its exposure to the sun and the altitude, and other factors.  However, these windows will usually perform adequately even after many years of gradual depressurization.  According to the National Glass Association, if 80% of the gas remains in spite of gradual leakage over time, a window can be expected to maintain its properties and effectiveness.  That means that, “even if 1% was leaking out per year, the window would still be effective in 20 years.”

If the breach is significant, however, the window will no longer be an effective thermal barrier and may require replacement. Condensation or fog inside the window unit indicates that the gas fill has escaped and been replaced with moisture-laden air. Homeowners should clean the window’s exterior to be sure that the observed moisture is, in fact, within the window rather than on its surface. The manufacturer or installer should be contacted if the window fails. Leaks can be detected only with special gas-detection equipment.  But homeowners should rest assured that leaked argon or krypton poses no health hazards to a home’s occupants.

One rare yet shocking consequence of argon leakage is the sudden implosion of the window. Popped argon window Window Gas FillsDue to molecular differences between argon and the principal components of air, nitrogen and oxygen, argon under pressure to escape a window unit may exit the seal faster than it can be replaced with air. Under this circumstance, the glass will bend inward to accommodate the gradual reduction in pressure within the window. If conditions are right, according to USGlass Magazine, “units have been reported to shatter with a bang, sometimes described as loud as a gunshot. While the broken glass usually stays within the unit, on at least one occasion, glass has shattered with enough force to send glass shards flying outward.” Elevation differences between the location where the IGU was first pressurized and its installation location may also account for the negative pressure. This phenomenon is quite rare, however, especially in newer windows with superior seals.

Double- and triple-paned windows are often filled with the gases argon or krypton to reduce convection within the window units to improve the building’s overall energy efficiency.  IGUs can be huge energy-savers for homeowners, and InterNACHI inspectors can help their clients determine whether these windows are the right choice.

Moisture Intrusion

basementwall 300x229 Moisture IntrusionMoisture Intrusion


Moisture intrusion can be the cause of building defects, as well as health ailments for the building’s occupants. We should have at least a basic understanding of how moisture may enter a building, and where moisture problem areas commonly occur.

Some common moisture-related problems include:

  • structural wood decay;
  • high indoor humidity and resulting condensation;
  • expansive soil, which may crack the foundation through changes in volume, or softened soil, which may lose its ability to support an overlying structure;
  • undermined foundations;
  • metal corrosion;
  • ice dams; and
  • mold growth.  Mold can only grow in the presence of high levels of moisture. People who suffer from the following conditions can be seriously (even fatally) harmed if exposed to elevated levels of airborne mold spores:
    • asthma;
    • allergies;
    • lung disease; and/or
    • compromised immune systems.

Note:  People who do not suffer from these ailments may still be harmed by elevated levels of airborne mold spores.

How does moisture get into the house?

Moisture or water vapor moves into a house in the following ways:

  • air infiltration. Air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from high-pressure areas to lower ones by the easiest path possible, such as a hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by air currents is very fast (in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute). Replacement air will infiltrate through the building envelope unless unintended air paths are carefully and permanently sealed;
  • by diffusion through building material. Most building materials slow moisture diffusion, to a large degree, although they never stop it completely;
  • leaks from roof;
  • plumbing leaks;
  • flooding, which can be caused by seepage from runoff or rising groundwater; it may be seasonal or catastrophic; and
  • human activities, including bathing, cooking, dishwashing and washing clothes. Indoor plants, too, may be a significant source of high levels of humidity.

Climate Zones and Moisture

In the northern U.S., moisture vapor problems are driven primarily by high indoor relative humidity levels, combined with low outdoor temperatures during the winter. In the southern U.S. (especially the southeast), the problem is largely driven by high outdoor humidity and low indoor temperatures during summer months. Mixed climates are exposed to both conditions and can experience both types of problems. Humid climates, in general, will be more of a moisture problem than dry climates. Wind-driven rain is the main cause of leaks and moisture through the building envelope.

Check for moisture intrusion in the following areas:

Moisture at Roofs

A roof leak may lead to the growth of visible mold colonies in the attic that can grow unnoticed. Roof penetrations increase the likelihood of water leaks due to failed gaskets, sealants and flashing. The number of roof penetrations may be reduced by a variety of technologies and strategies, including:

  • consolidation of vent stacks below the roof;
  • exhaust fan caps routed through walls instead of the roof;
  • high-efficiency combustion appliances, which can be sidewall-vented;
  • electrically powered HVAC equipment and hot water heaters that do not require flue; and
  • adequate flashing. Oftentimes, inspectors discover missing, incorrectly installed or corroded flashing pipes which contribute to moisture intrusion.

Moisture Intrusion From Plumbing

  • Distribution pipes and plumbing fixtures can be the source of large amounts of moisture intrusion. If the wall is moist and/or discolored, then moisture damage is already in progress. Most plumbing is hidden in the walls, so serious problems can begin unnoticed.
  • One of the most important means of moisture management in the bathroom is the exhaust fan. A non-functioning exhaust fan overloads the bathroom with damp air. If the exhaust fan doesn’t turn on automatically when the bathroom is in use, consider recommending switching the wiring or switch. The lack of an exhaust fan should be called out in the inspection report. The fan should vent into the exterior, not into the attic.
  • The bathroom sink, in particular, is a common source of moisture intrusion and damage. Although overflow drains can prevent the spillage of water onto the floor, they can become corroded and allow water to enter the cabinet.
  • Use a moisture meter to check for elevated moisture levels in the sub-floor around the toilet and tub.
  • Bathroom windows need to perform properly in a wide range of humidity and temperature conditions. Check to see if there are any obvious breaks in the weatherstripping and seals. Are there are stains or flaking on the painted surfaces?
  • Check showers and bathtubs. Is the caulking is cracked, stiff or loose in spots? Are there cracked tiles or missing grout that may channel water to vulnerable areas? If some water remains in the bathtub after draining, it may be a warning sign of possible structural weakening and settlement in the floor beneath the tub.

Moisture in The Utility Room

  • The water heater tank should be clean and rust-free.
  • The area around the water softener tank should be clean and dry.
  • Check that all through-the-wall penetrations for fuel lines, ducts, and electrical systems of heating system are well-sealed. All ducts should be clean and dust-free. Inspect the air supply registers in the house for dust accumulation.
  • Filters, supply lines, exterior wall penetrations, vents, ductwork and drainage of the cooling system must all be in good working order to avoid moisture problems.

Attic Moisture

  • Look for stains or discolorations at all roof penetrations. Chimneys, plumbing vents and skylight wells are common places where moisture may pass through the roof. Any such locations must be inspected for wetness, a musty smell and/or visible signs of mold.
  • Are there areas of the insulation that appear unusually thin?
  • Rust or corrosion around recessed lights are signs of a potential electrical hazard.

Foundations

Model building codes typically require damp-proofing of foundation walls. The damp-proofing shall be applied from the top of the footing to the finished grade. Parging of foundation walls should be damp-proofed in one of the following ways:

  • bituminous coating;
  • 3 pounds per square yard of acrylic modified cement;
  • 1/8-inch coat of surface-bonding cement; or
  • any material permitted for water-proofing.

In summary, moisture can enter a building in a number of different ways. High levels of moisture can cause building defects and health ailments.

Thanks to Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Infrared Cameras and Thermal Imaging

Infrared Cameras

Infrared cameras (IR) are quickly becoming an indispensable tool for home inspectors.Infrared Camera Infrared Cameras and Thermal Imaging

Thermal Imaging and reading the thermal images produced by an infrared camera during an inspection allows for quick and accurate identification of defects that may not always be immediately apparent to the naked eye. Infrared thermal imaging is especially useful when looking for air leaks in use with a blower door, including insulation defects, during an energy audit because it allows the inspector to actually view the apparent temperatures in a given area.

By purposely controlling the temperature and air pressure in the interior of a house, air can be forced inside through cracks and holes. Using an infrared camera, the sources of these air leaks can be quickly located and visually documented. Areas of insufficient insulation also become more apparent when viewed through an infrared camera and can be visually documented, as well.

How Infrared Camera Thermal Imaging Works

While there are other infrared tools available, such as spot radiometers and thermal line scanners, a thermal imaging camera is the most accurate device to use for energy-audit inspections. The camera reads infrared radiation in order to express heat differences and temperature signatures.

The Infrared Camera

The camera sees light that is within the heat spectrum that exists just beyond the spectrum that can be seen with the naked eye. Differing heat signatures are displayed in the camera’s viewfinder as a gradient color scheme, with hotter areas displayed as brighter colors, and cooler areas as darker colors.

An inspector can view this information on the infrared camera in order to make observations and find defects. By viewing the hottest and coldest areas, inspectors can collect valuable data about the building envelope. Images taken with the Infrared camera can be included alongside digital photos of the same problem area in the inspection report.

Infrared Thermal Imaging

Any digital storage media should also be checked for adequate memory so as not to run out of room while saving images, which are important as the visual documentation of the problem areas. Digital images of problem areas should be saved next to thermal images for comparison, so it is important to have plenty of memory in cameras and on data cards for both types of cameras.

An Infrared Camera Thermal Imaging Inspection

Because the IR camera shows differences in heat signatures for a given area, it is important to set up the testing conditions such that the temperature difference between the interior of the house and the air outside is as large as possible. The peaks of the heating and cooling seasons for any region are generally optimal times to gather thermal imaging data, since heat or air conditioning can be run in order to maximize the temperature difference.

All windows and exterior doors should be closed during testing. It is also helpful to move furniture away from walls so that they don’t block baseboards, and to remove curtains and blinds (or secure them out of the way) so that accurate readings can be taken at areas typical for leaking air, such as at floor-wall joints and window frames.

Achieving a 15° to 20º difference in temperature is ideal. The heat or air conditioning should then be turned off, and the inspector should wait at least 15 minutes before commencing with the IR inspection.

Infrared Camera FYI; Insulation Defects and Inadequate Insulation

Once a solid difference in temperature has been established between the interior and exterior of the house, insulation defects can be viewed by the camera. By looking at the difference in apparent temperatures, hot and cold spots can be identified as areas that may have missing or inadequate insulation. If a potential problem area is pinpointed using the infrared camera, the insulation in that spot should be examined to verify that it is an issue and to gather more details on the exact nature of the insulation problem. Was insulation moved during a fixture installation and not properly replaced? Is the thickness of the insulation inadequate for the application? These are the types of details inspectors can gather after locating an issue with the insulation.

Finding Air Leaks and Inadequate Insulation with An Infrared Camera

Finding the sources of air leaks using thermal imaging requires some additional setup beyond what is needed to find inadequate insulation problems. By changing the air pressure of the interior in relation to the exterior, air flow can be increased to force air through cracks and holes. With the warmer or cooler air from the outside flowing into the house through the cracks and holes, inspectors can use thermal imaging to locate the sources of these air leaks.

The best way to pull air inside through cracks and holes is by using blower door equipment. The blower door test creates ideal conditions for pulling air in through leaky spots, and these spots are then visible in the thermal image taken with an infrared camera. If blower door equipment is not available, a house’s exhaust fans and ventilation system can be used to create similar (though less controlled) conditions, allowing useful data to be gathered.

Areas to Check with An Infrared Camera

Knowing what areas to examine for air leaks and insulation issues will speed up the process of finding problems. Infrared equipment is extremely useful for pinpointing the locations of air leaks and specific spots where insulation is inadequate, but it is also useful to know where to start looking for such defects. Air leaks can often be felt with the hand during a blower door test. Also, during cold months, areas of insufficient insulation may be apparent due to the change in temperature in specific spots.

Inspectors can start with the following areas with a infrared camera, or any area that is already suspected to be leaking air or lacking inadequate insulation:

 

  • light fixtures;
  • electrical receptacles;
  • windows and doors;
  • attic access;
  • attic insulation;
  • basement rim joists;
  • cellar doors;
  • crawlspaces;
  • ductwork;
  • plumbing penetrations, and traps under tubs and showers;
  • plumbing vent pipe penetrations;
  • chimney flue and fireplace surrounds;
  • dropped soffits;
  • dropped ceilings;
  • kitchen soffits;
  • air handlers;
  • cracks between partition top plates and drywall;
  • utility chases; and
  • baseboards.

By using thermal imaging and infrared camera, inspectors can more quickly identify problems with insulation and the sources of air leaks. Understanding the basics of infrared camera technology along with blower door tests, including how to set up conditions for gathering data, and knowing specific areas to examine, will help inspectors make the best use of thermal imaging cameras during an energy audit.

// Infrared Cameras
//
 Infrared Cameras and Thermal Imaging