Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Up on the Roof Top

Roof access can be rather tricky at times. It is so important to have an understanding of the ladder, positioning and access to the roof.

Many people will be hopping up on their roof here in the days to follow so I hope this article will help many understand ladder safety.

Roof Access by Window

Once you’ve decided to walk a roof, you’ll have to decide how best to gain access. One way is by climbing out a window onto your roof.

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This roof access can be the safest method, since it eliminates ladder-climbing, but you’ll need to be careful not to damage screens, walls or window trim.

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You may also be able to access the roof from a deck or balcony, either by climbing over the rail onto an adjacent roof slope or by setting up a ladder.

LADDERS, Part 1

The typical method for accessing a roof is by a ladder resting on the ground and leaning against the edge of the roof. Finding a method for stabilizing ladders is highly advisable, since they become more unstable as you climb. One of the most common and serious fall hazards you’ll face is stepping from the roof onto the ladder. Standing your ladder at an inside corner or against a wall will help provide a margin of safety.

Since it’s easy to scratch gutters, it’s a good idea to place your ladder in an inconspicuous location, if possible, such as at the side of the home, rather than at the front or the back.  Your ladder should rest against an eave, and not a rake. If you have to choose between risking a gutter scratch or safety, choose safety.

Choosing a Ladder

In accessing a roof, the most important piece of equipment is your ladder. Most of the time, you’ll be accessing the roof with your ladder, and the emphasis here is on “your” ladder.  Never use a ladder you know nothing about. You need to be familiar with the operation of the ladder you use to be sure that it’s in good condition. Never use a damaged ladder.

We’ll look at the different kinds of ladders and the situations in which they’re used, but a few rules are true no matter what ladder you use.

Read the label. You’ll be looking first at the load capacity. Ladders are generally rated as follows:

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  • Type I Industrial:  These ladders are heavy-duty, with a load-capacity limit of 250 pounds.

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  • Type II Commercial:  These ladders are medium-duty, with a load capacity of not more than 225 pounds.
  • Type III Household:  These ladders are light-duty, with a load-capacity maximum of 200 pounds. These are not appropriate for use during inspection work.

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Some companies manufacture ladders rated for more weight than a Type I. Specialty ladders are available that are rated for up to 375 pounds.

As an inspector, our ladders are tools that we use a lot. Low-quality ladders may be less expensive, but they’re not as sturdy, durable and safe as high-quality ladders. Always buy the best ladders you can afford.

You’ll be safer if you use ladders appropriate for each use.

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Extension ladders are better for accessing a roof. Step-ladders are better for accessing attic hatches.

Safety Rules for All Ladders

These safety rules apply to all types of ladders:

  • Keep it clean.  Keep your ladders free of grease, oil, and other slip hazards.
  • Don’t overload it.  Never load a ladder beyond its labeled capacity.
  • Beware of electrical dangers.  Never use metal ladders around exposed electrical wiring.
  • Follow correct use.  Use ladders only for their designed purpose. For example, don’t use a ladder as a scaffold plank.
  • Ensure a stable setup.  Make sure the ladder is stable before you climb it to access the roof.
  • Move it safely.  Don’t try to move a ladder while you’re on it by rocking it or bouncing it.
  • Be healthy.  Never use a ladder when you’re under the influence of alcohol, drugs or medication, or when you don’t feel well.
  • If you must dismount unexpectedly, use good judgment and caution.  If you get sick, dizzy or panicky while on a ladder, don’t try to climb down in a hurry. Wait until you feel better, and then climb down slowly and carefully.

 

Thanks to Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko

 Up On The Roof Top

Bug Zappers

Bug Zappers are very popular this time of year.

zapper Bug Zappers

Bug zappers are popular exterior appliances installed by a homeowner or food handler to attempt localized control of flying insect populations. Its name comes from the characteristic “zap” sound introduced when an insect is electrocuted. Around homes,bug zappers are primarily used to kill biting (female) mosquitoes, which create itchy bumps and can transmit the West Nile Virus or encephalitis, malaria and yellow fever. While Popular Mechanics produced a sketch of a bug zapper as early as 1911, it wasn’t until 1934 that parasitology professor Dr. W.B. Herms introduced the electronic insect killer that became the model for all future bug zappers.

How Bug Zappers Work

Bug zappers typically consist of the following components:

  • the housing, which is a plastic or grounded metal exterior casing that contains the zapper’s parts. Bug Zappers may be shaped liked a lantern, a cylinder or a rectangular cube. A grid design may be incorporated to prevent children and animals from touching the electrified grids inside the device;
  • a light source, which is usually fluorescent-type, such as mercury, neon or ultraviolet light;
  • wire grids or screens, which are electrified layers of wire mesh that surround the light source. These grids are separated by a tiny gap roughly the size of a typical insect (several millimeters); and
  • the transformer, which is the device in bug zappers that electrifies the wire mesh, changing the 120-volt, electrical-line voltage to 2,000 volts or more.

Bug zappers work by luring flying insects with fluorescent (typically ultraviolet) light into a deadly electrical current. Because the flower patterns that attract insects are better revealed in ultraviolet light, many flying insects that feed on flowers will be drawn to the bug zapper. Before they reach the light, however, they will come into contact with the bug zappers wire mesh, completing the electrical circuit and disintegrating.

Bug zappers can kill many thousands of flying insects nightly. Some models incorporate a tray designed to collect scattered insect parts, although many models allow the debris to fall to the ground below.

Are Bug Zappers Effective or Not?

Despite bug zappers widespread use, numerous studies have called into question the effectiveness and safety of bug zappers. Two of the more pressing issues are the following:

  • Female (biting) mosquitoes and other biting insects are more attracted to the carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor in the breath of animals than to ultraviolet light. As a consequence, standard bug zappers typically kill large numbers of harmless and beneficial insects, such as beetles and fireflies, and ultimately fail to reduce the number of the types of insects that prompt the purchase of a bug zapper in the first place. In fact, one study found that just 0.22% of the insects killed by bug zappers were biting insects, while nearly half of those killed were harmless, non-biting aquatic insects from nearby rivers and streams. The study even found “the probability of being bitten by mosquitoes increases in the vicinity of these traps,” perhaps because the biting insects are actually lured by the ultraviolet light but become distracted by the far more attractive human prey nearby. Some newer bug zappers address this issue by incorporating a CO2 container at the bottom of the lamp. Other designs attract mosquitoes into a netting device on the outside of the bug zapper that traps the mosquito, and eventually the insect dies of dehydration.
  • The electrocuted insects are blasted into a fine mist that contains insect parts as well as unkilled bacteria and viruses up to 7 feet (2.1 m) from the device. The air surrounding the zapper may become contaminated with campylobacter jejuni, staphylococciserratia marcescens, enterococci, and other potentially dangerous organisms commonly carried by flies. For this reason, a bug zapper should never be placed over a food preparation area or in a hospital or any other sterile environment to prevent the potential spread of disease. Children should not be allowed to play beneath an operating bug zapper. Models that contain a tray to catch insect debris are less of a health risk.

Tips for Homeowners Who Have Bug Zappers

Bug zappers do not present more of a fire hazard than other electrical devices. Most units have been UL-tested, but, as with any outdoor electrical appliance, care must be taken to ensure that electrical cords do not become frayed or wet.  They should also be connected to GFCI-protected receptacles.

Inspectors may pass on the following mosquito-control techniques to concerned homeowners:zap Bug Zappers

  • Do not allow water to accumulate anywhere in your yard for more than a few days. Eliminate sources of standing water, especially old tires, flower pots, clogged gutters, tin cans or buckets. Fill in or drain ruts, puddles and other low places in the yard. Even holes in trees from rot and hollow stumps can collect water that can harbor mosquitoes. Cover trash containers to keep rainwater out, and drill holes in the bottom of trash containers to allow any water to drain. Repair leaky pipes and outdoor faucets.
  • Bug zappers should be cleaned out at least annually to prevent the accumulation of bug parts on the wire mesh, which will decrease the effectiveness of the unit, and may lead to illness if the bug parts contaminate foods, drink or items used by people or pets.
  • Keep grass cut short and any shrubbery well-trimmed, as adult mosquitoes use these places to rest and hide.
  • Encourage the presence of bats by installing a bat house. These winged mammals pose little danger to humans, and a single brown bat can consume up to 600 mosquitoes per hour.
  • Install a fan. Mosquitoes and other flying insects will avoid moving air.
  • Wear long-sleeve shirts and pants. The pesticide permethrin may be applied to clothing to protect against mosquitoes and ticks. Beware that while permethrin is relatively safe for people and dogs, it is toxic to cats.

Bug zappers are a common yet controversial means of controlling biting insect populations around the home, and caution should be taken in their selection and use.

Find Bug Zappers Here

Inspecting Roofs With an Infrared Camera

Roofs and How To Inspect Them With IR Cameras

Since the 1970s, infrared (IR) thermography, or thermal imaging, has been used for inspecting flat and low-slope roofs to check for moisture entrapment.  Employing IR cameras for inspecting home and commercial roofs are on the rise, with millions of square feet now being inspected using this technology every year.

Replacing damaged roofs can cost as much as $8 to $10 per square foot, and billions of dollars are lost every year because of premature roof failure.  roof leak IR Inspecting Roofs With An Infrared CameraThe main causes of premature roof failure and high maintenance costs are moisture intrusion and undetected wet insulation inside the roofing system.  Because thermal imaging makes apparent temperature differences viewable, it is excellent at finding moisture and then documenting problem areas during roof inspections.  Roofs absorb heat during the day and releases it when the temperature falls later.  Wet areas release heat slower than dry areas.  Because of this, the wet and dry areas are readily viewable in a thermal image, which displays apparent temperature differences as gradient colors.

Inspectors familiarize themselves with this application of thermal imaging to expand their IR services to diagnose problem areas on roofs that have trapped moisture, which can lead to structural problems and expensive roof and structural repairs.

Advantages of Using IR Imaging for Roofs

Thermal imaging is non-invasive and allows inspectors to scan large areas of roofs very quickly.  More traditional methods require a grid-type contact search, which is very time-consuming for inspectors who choose to walk roofs for inspections.  Core sampling and other invasive testing are destructive and not usually performed.  Using an infrared camera to locate areas of moisture intrusion and wet insulation is quick, accurate and inexpensive compared to other methods.  Since IR imaging allows problem areas to be located before severe symptoms appear, significant damage can be avoided by catching and addressing issues as they develop.  Thermal imaging can also be performed from an elevated vantage point, allowing an even greater area to be examined at once, and eliminating the need to lug equipment up and down various roof elevations.
Here‘s a list of advantages of using an IR camera for inspecting roofs:
  • It’s fast and accurate.
  • It can identify small problem areas before they become larger.
  • It provides a thorough assessment of compromised and damaged areas.
  • IR equipment is lightweight and portable.
  • It provides visual documentation of problems.
  • It is non-invasive.
  • It can be used for inspections that are conducted as part of regular home maintenance.

There are few disadvantages to using thermal imaging for inspecting roofs.  The main things to be aware of are the roofs composition and the weather conditions.  Both of these factors can influence the ability of infrared technology to provide accurate and useful information.

Weather Conditions When Inspecting Roofs

Though the principles involved are the same, detecting moisture intrusion using an IR camera is different for inspecting roofs compared to detecting moisture intrusion at the interior because exterior environmental factors play a larger role in determining whether the data can be accurately collected.  Because of this, it is important to conduct IR roof inspections under optimum weather conditions. wetroof Inspecting Roofs With An Infrared Camera
There are four weather-related factors that can influence exterior surface temperatures over a roofs wet areas compared to dry areas.  They are:
  • the difference between interior and exterior temperatures;
  • the rate of temperature change in the hours before viewing the thermal images;
  • the amount of solar loading; and
  • wind speed.
The best weather conditions for conducting an infrared roof inspection include:
  • winds of less than 15 mph;
  • sunny and clear conditions on the day prior to the inspection; and
  • a quick decrease in the ambient temperature right before collecting images.

An infrared inspection during warm weather relies on solar loading to create the apparent temperature difference between wet and dry spots, and is best performed at dusk, when the difference will be most extreme.  Imaging during cold months is made possible by creating a large inside-to-outside temperature difference in the building, which is another way to allow the wet and dry spots to be viewed.

Materials Covering Roofs

It is important to know the composition of the roofs to be inspected with an IR camera because the roof-covering materials affect how well thermal imaging can detect moisture.  Most common materials pose no problems.  Any commercially available rigid insulation board, as well as composite boards and tapered systems made from the same materials, can be “read” through thermal imaging.  This includes organic fibers, perlite, cork, fiberglass, cellular glass, polystyrene, polyurethane, isocyanurate and phenolic insulation materials.

Inverted roof membrane assemblies with extruded polystyrene insulation between the ballast and protective membrane are poor candidates for thermal imaging inspection, although they are not common.  Some other construction types that can pose problems include roofs with concrete pavers, roofs with lightweight concrete or gypsum, and highly reflective metal roofs.  Infrared imaging can still be used in many of these cases, though it may be more difficult to read the images.

Inspection Tips For Roofs

It is best to complete a visual inspection of the roof prior to thermal imaging to determine the most effective procedure for collecting images, as well as to identify access points, safety hazards, and any heat sources beneath the roof that may show up during imaging.  The attic and underside of  roofs can also be examined in order to note any conditions that may affect imaging, and to identify potential problem areas that can be confirmed later using a moisture meter and further investigation.lrg 825 inspector roof Inspecting Roofs With An Infrared Camera
It is helpful to know the design and composition of the roof, as well as exactly what type of insulation has been installed.  This will help determine how thermal imaging can be best employed to gather data.  If possible, knowing a little about the history of the roof in relation to any previous problems can also be beneficial.  Note the flashing and penetration details, as moisture intrusion at these points may indicate inadequate or missing installations.
The IR camera should be set up so that large sections of the roof can be viewed successively.  The angle for viewing is best at greater than 20° from the roofs surface.  As wet spots are located by apparent temperature differences from surrounding dry spots, they can be examined more closely.  A moisture meter will help confirm these areas as problems.  Once the problem spots are located, they can be documented by taking an image with the infrared camera to include in the inspection report alongside a digital photo.  These spots can also be marked on the roof with chalk so that they will be easy to find again later while plans for repairs are being developed.

We benefit greatly from utilizing IR technology in the field for inspecting roofs, potentially saving property owners the cost of expensive repairs.

Consumers should always seek inspectors who are Infrared Certified by looking for the Infrared Certified logo.