Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Visible Masonry Inspection

Masonry Inspection

The inspection of a home’s exterior can be intensive, and may take up a full third of the total time it takes to inspect the entire home.  We are likely to encounter some common problems typical to masonry exteriors.  Homeowners can benefit from learning to identify these problems and understanding more about their causes.  cracked masonry wall Visible Masonry Inspection

Before actually inspecting the masonry, it can be helpful to take into account some of the conditions that may influence the condition of the building.  Sometimes, the cause of a problem can be found by evaluating exterior and environmental factors, such as the climate, terrain and any vegetation around the structure.  These conditions can be helpful to understand when the culprit of a visible defect is not readily apparent.

How Climate Effects Masonry

Different environments have different effects on building materials.  Specific climate conditions have their own special concerns and problems.  For example, damage from freeze-thaw cycles can be a major issue in a cold-weather climate such as upstate New York that will not be relevant for the arid climate of western Arizona.

Environmental Concerns and Masonry

Bodies of salt water near the building or climates of extreme humidity may contribute to increased efflorescence.

Acid rain caused by industrial pollution may be the culprit in damage to limestone, sandstone and marble structures.

Vibrations from major nearby roadways or railways can sometimes cause damage to mortar joints.

Nearby excavations for subways or deep foundations for skyscrapers can sometimes lower water tables and cause soil problems that eventually lead to foundation issues.

Terrain and Vegetation with Masonry

It may be useful to determine the type of soil around the building, since different types of soil drain moisture in different ways.  Poor soil drainage may eventually lead to structural damage.

Proper surface drainage around the house is important.  The grade should slope downward and away from the structure.

Ivy and other species that grow on exterior walls can sometimes penetrate and damage mortar joints, and their leaves may make it difficult for porous masonry materials to dry completely after rainfall.

Cracking of Masonry

Cracking is one of the most common problems observed in masonry, and cracks will often need further analysis to determine what is causing them and what type of corrective action may need to be taken.  Like most building materials, masonry will expand and contract due to changes in temperature.  Masonry can deform elastically over time in order to accommodate small movements, but any large movements usually cause cracking.

Here are some examples of different forms of cracking that we may encounter, as well as how to identify each type.

  • Shrinkage or expansion, especially in concrete block, causes cracking, usually appearing in the building’s first year.  During curing, expansion and contraction occur.  Water evaporates as concrete block cures, causing the concrete to shrink.  Clay brick absorbs moisture as it cures, causing expansion.  Joints are built into walls in order to accommodate this movement, and cracking can be the result of improper joints.  These cracks are rarely serious and can be identified as tapering cracks that widen as they move upward diagonally.  Shrinkage cracks are often mistaken for settlement cracks, but they will usually appear on the middle third of a wall, with the footer beneath them remaining intact.  Pressure-injecting concrete epoxy grout or adding pilasters can sometimes help restore structural integrity in a case where a wall is found to be unsound.
  • Sweeping or horizontal cracking can be the result of several factors, including improper back-filling, vibrations from heavy machinery or vehicles in close vicinity to the wall, or freezing, swelling and heaving of water-saturated soil next to the wall.  This type of cracking is potentially serious because it indicates that the foundation wall, which is the vertical supporting member carrying a portion of the structure above, is basically bent or broken.  Complicated repairs may be necessary in this case, possibly including jacking and reinforcing the wall with interior buttresses, lowering the ground level around the building to relieve lateral pressure, or pressure-injecting concrete epoxy grout into the wall.
  • Uneven settlement can cause cracking and structural problems, though it is relatively uncommon, and moisture and thermal movements are often incorrectly diagnosed as settlement problems.  Settlement will usually occur early in the life of a building or if there is a drastic change in underground conditions, and is often associated with improper foundation design.  Some signs of settlement include vertical distortion or cracking of masonry walls, warped interior/exterior openings, sloped floors, and sticking doors and windows.  Cracks from uneven settlement are most likely to be found at corners and adjacent openings, and usually follow a rough diagonal along mortar joints, and may extend through contiguous building elements, such as floor slabs and interior plaster work.  While major settlement cracking can be an issue, minor cracks are only structurally harmful if they allow moisture to penetrate.
  • Cracking in masonry piers may occur if piers have rotated or settled differentially, or are subject to frost heaving or are damaged by freeze-thaw cycles.  While the cracking may not be serious, structural wood-bearing components can lose bearing if piers move or deteriorate.
  • Other causes of cracking can include walls leaning or bulging, salt crystals expanding inside the pores of the masonry, iron or steel wall reinforcements corroding, poor practices during construction, and inadequate support over openings.  Also, minor cracking that resembles spider veins occurs naturally during the curing process of cement.  These cracks are normal and no cause for alarm, unless they grow, which would indicate a potential problem requiring further investigation.
 

Efflorescence on Masonry

Excess moisture in masonry may be indicated by a white, staining deposit called efflorescence.  This white staining is actually a salt deposit left by water that contained dissolved salts that evaporate after penetrating a masonry structure.  Salts can also be present in all kinds of masonry materials, including brick, mortar, concrete block, plaster and stucco.

Efflorescence can be unsightly, and may also be an indicator that excess moisture may be present in the masonry, which can lead to problems.  Salt crystals deposited inside the pores of the masonry can sometimes lead to cracking when they expand.  Any observed efflorescence should be cleaned off of surfaces.

Masonry Steel Lintel Deflection

Lintels are beams that span openings in masonry walls, such as windows and doors.  Reinforced masonry, pre-cast concrete and steel angles are all commonly used as lintels, but steel lintels in particular can sometimes cause problems if they are deflecting too much.  This is not a structural problem, but too much deflection can often crack the stiff masonry or cause the lintel to rest on a window or door frame and transfer the wall’s load to it, which will lead to problems down the road.

Corrosion

Moisture penetration puts routed cells, collar joints and steel rebar in bond beams at risk for corrosion. Concrete Reinforcing Steel Corrosion Visible Masonry Inspection  Anchors attaching veneer to a support, horizontal joint reinforcement, and ties that hold multi-wythe masonry walls together can each also be susceptible to corrosion.  Once corrosion begins, rust is produced, which occupies up to six times the original volume of the steel.  The expansion of volume leads to cracking of masonry, and this allows for even more water penetration, perpetuating the cycle.

While corrosion-resistant coating is beneficial for the reinforcing materials, and the alkaline nature of mortar helps prevent corrosion, tight mortar joints and proper flashing are essential for ensuring that water penetration does not lead to problems.

Inadequate Flashing used in Masonry

Flashing is extremely important for controlling and diverting the flow of water away from the masonry, and it is very common to see missing or improperly installed flashing.  This will often lead over time to problems from moisture penetration, sometimes requiring costly repair.

Proper flashing should always be in place at the base, sill, head and roof locations, as necessary.  The flashing should have end dams, and seams should be overlapped and sealed.  Slip joints are necessary in metal flashing to allow for expansion and contraction with changes in temperature.

Flashing inside a masonry wall forms a gutter to collect any moisture that has penetrated the wall to divert it outside.  This flashing is placed completely throughout a horizontal wall in mortar joints, with weep holes that allow the moisture to escape.

Mortar Deterioration and Poor Grouting Practices

Mortar deterioration is usually found in areas prone to excessive moisture.  Damaged mortar joints can be re-pointed, and the flow of water can then be directed away to avoid future problems.  Pointing is best done with new mortar that has a similar composition to the existing mortar.  Damage can be done by using a significantly different mortar because the pointing won’t be able to flex in a similar way to the rest of the joint.
Spalling is caused by a combination of poor construction and environmental factors that can lead to concrete breaking up, flaking or becoming pitted.  Chunks may even break loose from the installation.  Spalling may be only aesthetic in nature, or it may be more serious, depending on where it is occurring.  For example, if it is occurring near structural reinforcing bars inside the concrete, there is a possibility that structural issues can ensue, so the damaged area may need to be assessed by a masonry professional.
Grout is used in reinforced masonry in bond beams, lintels, collar joints and vertical cores.  The grout serves to transfer stress loads from the masonry units to the reinforcing bars.  Placing the grout correctly can be difficult, especially in reinforced cores, which can be very small.  The grout should be placed by a masonry expert to ensure that the transfer of stress from the masonry to the reinforcing bars is not compromised.

Another problem arises when building codes and contractors do not distinguish between grout and mortar, which leads to the same mortar used for laying units being used to also fill cores.  Only one type of mortar, Type M (per ASTM C270), actually meets the same strength requirements as grout, which has a 28-day compressive strength of at least 2,000 psi.  This substitution of materials is not advisable.

We can all benefit from understanding more about a few of the problems most commonly observed when inspecting the visible masonry of a house, as well as what might be causing them.  Considering some additional factors, such as climate and terrain, and how they may affect the masonry, can also be useful.

 

More Helpful Masonry Information

What Is Efflorescence

Efflorescence

Efflorescence is an accumulation of minerals and salts on masonry surfaces, such as brick, cement, and sometimes stone.

We should know how to prevent against and remove this unsightly residue. They must also be aware that, while efflorescence itself is not dangerous, it indicates the presence of excess water, which can lead to more serious structural and health issues.efflorescence What Is Efflorescence

How Efflorescence Forms

The earth contains natural salts that are present in the raw materials that make up masonry products, such as concrete, asphalt and stucco. These salts remain trapped within masonry in solid form until they are dissolved into water, which usually makes its way into the material through small pores. Water can originate from rain, sprinklers, household leaks, or any number of other places. Cold, dry air will draw this liquid back out of the material where it evaporates, depositing the salt as a white crystalline growth on the surface. Efflorescence typically forms during cold, dry weather shortly after it has rained and moisture has entered the masonry. It can occur year-round, but it is most likely to form during the winter due to low temperatures.


Identifying Efflorescence

As with mold, the appearance of efflorescence varies greatly. It can be powdery, it can have sharp edges and be easy to spot, or it can have indistinct edges. It can cover a large area as a fine dust, or form large individual crystals. Its appearance depends partly on the type of salt from which it is composed, but humidity also plays a role in this determination. In exceptionally dry climates, water can evaporate before it even reaches the surface, in which case the salt will accumulate unseen beneath the surface. In humid conditions, moisture may take a long time to evaporate, allowing the slow growth of “whispers” projecting from the surface.white mold What Is Efflorescence

Distinguishing Mold From Efflorescence

We should already know how to distinguish mold (pictured at right) from efflorescence, but it is possible for homeowners to confuse the two. The expense of a mold test can be avoided if the substance in question can be identified as efflorescence. Here are a few tips that inspectors can offer their clients so that they understand the differences:

  • Pinched between the fingers, efflorescence will turn into a powder, while mold will not.
  • Efflorescence forms on inorganic building materials, while mold forms on organic substances. However, it is possible for mold to consume dirt on brick or cement.
  • Efflorescence will dissolve in water, while mold will not.
  • Efflorescence is almost always white, yellow or brown, while mold can be any color imaginable. If the substance in question is purple, pink or black, it is not efflorescence.

Aside from mold, the following conditions can result from excess moisture in a residence:

  • fungi that rot wood;
  • water damage to sheetrock;
  • reduced effectiveness of insulation.

Inspectors should note the presence of efflorescence in their inspection reports because it generally occurs where there is excess moisture, a condition that also encourages the growth of mold. An exception can be made during the first few years of a building’s construction when efflorescence will appear as a result of moisture locked within the masonry in a process called “new building bloom.” This moisture comes from water added during the manufacturing or mixing process that will undoubtedly contribute to efflorescence. This type of efflorescence will appear all over the masonry material and will continue to accumulate until the initial water supply is exhausted, which can take up to a year. Efflorescence that appears locally and after the “new building bloom” is over is a symptom of excess moisture that can be problematic. The source of this moisture should  be determined and corrected.efflorescence inspection What Is Efflorescence


Prevention and Removal of Efflorescence

Prevention
  • An impregnating hydrophobic sealant can be applied to a surface to prevent the intrusion of water. It will also prevent water from traveling to the surface from within. In cold climates, this sealant can cause material to break during freeze/thaw cycles.
  • During home construction, bricks left out overnight should be kept on pallets and be covered. Moisture from damp soil and rain can be absorbed into the brick.

Removal

  • Pressurized water can sometimes be used to remove or dissolve efflorescence.
  • An acid, such as diluted muriatic acid, can be used to dissolve efflorescence. Water should be applied first so that the acid does not discolor the brick itself. Following application, baking soda can be used to neutralize the acid and prevent any additional damage to the masonry. Muriatic acid is toxic, and contact with skin or eyes should be avoided.
  • A strong brush can be used.

Note:  The use of water to remove efflorescence may result in the re-absorption of crystals into the host material, from which they may later reappear as more efflorescence. It is advisable that if water is used in the removal process that it is dried off very quickly.

FYI, efflorescence is a harmless yet unsightly accumulation of salts on masonry surfaces. Its presence indicates excess water, a condition that can damage interiors and encourage the growth of mold. Inspectors should know how to remove efflorescence from surfaces, and educate their clients about its identification and significance.

Efflorescence


 What Is Efflorescence  What Is Efflorescence

Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Mortar Joints Types

Although good-quality bricks may outlast civilizations, the mortar that bonds them can crack and crumble after a number of years. Water penetration is the greatest degrader of mortar, and different mortar joints allow for varying degrees of water-resistance. Mortar joints in brickwork also take up a surprisingly large amount of a wall’s surface area and have a significant influence on the wall’s overall appearance. Some mortar joints have  profiles accentuate their individual designs, while other mortar joints merge the bricks and mortar to form a flush, homogeneous surface.

The following are the most common mortar joints:

 NewConcaveBold Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Concave Mortar Joints

This popular type of joint is formed in mortar through the use of a curved steel jointing tool. It is very effective at resisting rain penetration due to its recessed profile and the tight seal formed by compacted mortar. Patterns are emphasized on a dense, smooth surface, and small irregularities are hidden.

v Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

V-Joint Mortar Joints

This type of joint can be made with a V-shaped jointer or a trowel soon after the bricks are laid. Ornamental and highly visible, the joint conceals small irregularities and is highly attractive. Like the concave joint, the V-joint is water-resistant because its formation compacts the mortar and its shape directs water away from the seal.

weathered Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Weather Joint Mortar Joints

Mortar is recessed increasingly from the bottom to the top of the joint, with the top end not receding more than 3/8-inch into the wall. The straight, inclined surfaces of the bed (horizontal) joints tend to catch the light and give the brickwork a neat, ordered appearance. This joint is less compacted than the concave and V-joints, although it is still suitable for exterior building walls.

grapevine Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Grapevine Joint Mortar Joints

While most popular during America’s Colonial period, this design is often replicated in newer brickwork. It is created with a grapevine jointer, which is a metal blade with a raised bead that creates an indented line in the center of the mortar joint. These lines are often rough and wavy, simulating the generally straight yet slightly irregular appearance of a grapevine. It is commonly used on matte-finish and antique-finish brickwork.

extruded Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Extruded (Squeezed) Joint Mortar Joints

This joint design requires no tooling and is formed naturally as excess mortar is squeezed out from between the bricks. The result is a rustic, textured appearance that is especially attractive in garden settings. This design is not recommended for exterior building walls due to the tendency for exposed mortar to break away, degrading the wall’s appearance.

beaded Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Beaded Joint Mortar Joints

Raising a rounded, bead-shaped segment of the mortar away from the mortar surface produces this old-fashioned, formal design. Although beaded joints can create interesting shadows, they are not recommended for exterior use due to their exposed ledges.

struck Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Struck Joint Mortar Joints

This joint is formed in a similar fashion as the weathered joint, except that the bottom edge, instead of the top edge, is recessed. It is a very poor insulator against water, as it will allow water to collect on its bottom ledge.

raked Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Raked Joint Mortar Joints

For this design, mortar is raked out to a consistent depth. Although often left roughened, it can be compacted for better water-resistance. This design highly emphasizes the joint and is sometimes used in modern buildings in order to match the historic appearance of their locales. Unless it is compressed, it is not as water-resistant as other mortar joints because the design incorporates ledges, which will collect water as it runs down the wall. Also, when mortar is removed from the joints, it becomes smeared on the surfaces of the brick at the recesses. To remove the mortar, contractors often aggressively clean the walls with pressurized water or acid solutions, which can open up additional voids and increase the possibility of water penetration.

flush Masonry Mortar Joints FYI

Flush Joint Mortar Joints

This joint is best used when the wall is intended to be plastered or joints are to be hidden under paint. Because the mortar is not compressed, it is less water-resistant than some of the other designs.

 

FINAL FYI, mortar joints vary by their appearance or by their water-resistance properties.