Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

Fire extinguisher maintenance and inspection should be performed regularly.

A fire extinguisher is a device commonly found indoors and is used to douse a fire and prevent its spread.

A fire extinguisher is a small metal canister that contains compressed gas (usually nitrogen) that, when activated, propel a directed spray of flame-retardant chemicals. A fire extinguisher is only effective if building occupants understand where and why they are used for fire safety.

Fire Extinguisher Classes

 fire classes 234x300 Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

A fire extinguisher is distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:

“A” class – Fires that result from ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.
“B” class – Fires that result from combustible liquids, such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease.
“C” class – Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator.
“D” class – Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments.
“K” class – These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.
*Note* Although, technically, the letter rankings listed above refer to fire types, these symbols can also be used to identify the extinguishers themselves. For instance, an extinguisher that uses CO2 can be called a “CO2 extinguisher” or a “BC extinguisher.”

Fire Extinguisher Types

No fire extinguisher can be safely and effectively used for every type of fire. Some contain chemicals that are ineffective in certain situations and can even cause harm to the operator if misapplied. To prevent confusion, a fire extinguisher is classified by the type of chemical agents they contain. A few of the most common fire extinguisher types are listed below:

Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher 

There are two types of fire extinguishers that use a dry chemical. One is called “multi-purpose dry chemical” and uses ammonium phosphate as the extinguishing agent, which is effective on “A,” “B,” and “C” class fires. This chemical is corrosive and must be scrubbed from surfaces after use. These types of extinguishers are very common and are found in schools, homes, hospitals and offices. Sodium bicarbonate is used in the fire extinguisher known as “regular dry chemical,” which are capable of handling “B” and “C” class fires. These extinguishers are found in garages, kitchens and laboratories. Sodium bicarbonate is easy to clean and non-toxic.

Carbon Dioxide Fire Extinguisher

This type of fire extinguisher contains liquid CO2 that is expelled as a gas. They are effective against “B” and “C” class fires. Unlike other chemicals, CO2 does not leave a harmful residue and is environmentally friendly. It also poses very little danger to electronics and is effectively employed in laboratories, computer rooms, and other areas with sensitive equipment.

Water Fire Extinguisher

These extinguishers are most suited for “A” class fires. However, they cannot be used in “B,” “C” or “D” class fires. In “B” and “D” class fires, the water will spread the flames. In a “C” class fire, the water is conductive and poses a risk of electric shock to the operator. However, the misting nozzle of a “Water Mist” extinguisher breaks up the stream of deionized water so that there is no conductive path back to the operator. Since the agent used is water, this type of fire extinguisher is inexpensive and environmentally friendly.

Wet Chemical Fire Extinguisher

These devices are designed to combat “K” class fires and commonly use potassium acetate. They are appropriately employed in commercial kitchens and restaurants, especially around deep fryers. The chemical is emitted as a fine mist that does not cause grease to splash onto other surfaces. They can also be used in “A” class fires.

Inspection of Fire Extinguisher

You should:

  • check that a portable fire extinguisher exists within a 30-foot travel distance of commercial-type cooking equipment that uses cooking oil or animal fat.
  • check that a portable fire extinguisher is within 75-feet of travel on every floor.
  • check for the presence of portable extinguishers, and determine that they are located in conspicuous and readily available locations immediately available for use, and not obstructed or obscured from view.
  • confirm that access to the fire extinguisher is not obstructed.
  • make sure that the hose (if so equipped) is intact and not obstructed.
  • make sure the pressure dial on the fire extinguisher reads in the green or “charged” area. It should also be clear and readable.
  • check that the pull pin is securely fastened within the handle and held in place by the tamper seal.
  • check for visible dents or cracks in the extinguisher body.
  • check that the fire extinguisher is in its proper location and mounted correctly.
  • check for modifications that might reduce the extinguisher’s functionality.
  • make sure that the fire extinguisher has a label and that is is legible.

Do not do the following:

  • test fire extinguishers.
  • determine the adequate number of fire extinguishers needed or their ratings.
  • ignite or extinguish fires.

Fire Extinguisher Testing and Replacement

The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) recommends that a fire extinguisher should be tested every twelve years or five years, depending on the type. The standard method of testing, “hydrostatic,” is conducted underwater where the cylinders of the fire extinguisher are subjected to pressures that exceed their ratings. Vessels that fail the test are condemned and destroyed, while the rest are reassembled and put back into service.

According to the NFPA, a fire extinguisher should be destroyed if any of the following conditions are present (they should not be tested):

a. where repairs by soldering, welding, brazing, or use of patching compounds exist.
b. where the cylinder threads are worn, corroded, broken, cracked or nicked.
c. where there is corrosion that has caused pitting, including pitting under a removable nameplate or nameband assembly.
d. where the fire extinguisher has been burned in a fire.
e. where a calcium chloride-type of fire extinguisher agent was used in a stainless steel fire extinguisher.
f. where the shell is of copper or brass construction joined by soft solder or rivets.
g. where the depth of a dent exceeds 1/10 of the greatest dimension of the dent if not in a weld, or exceeds 1⁄4 in. (0.6 cm) if the dent includes a weld.
h. where any local or general corrosion, cuts, gouges or dings have removed more than 10 percent of the minimum cylinder wall thickness.
i. where a fire extinguisher has been used for any purpose other than that of a fire extinguisher.fire extinguisher tags Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection

When should a fire extinguisher be used?

Small fires can be controlled through the use of a household or commercial fire extinguisher. A household fire extinguisher can often completely douse a very small fire and prevent the need for professional assistance. Even if a fire cannot be completely doused, a homeowner can potentially control a blaze long enough with a fire extinguisher for firefighters to arrive. A fire extinguisher should not be used if the operator is not sure they have the proper type of fire extinguisher, if they are not sure how to use it, or if they cannot avoid smoke or are in imminent danger.   If the operation of a fire  extinguisher will place building occupants in danger, they should evacuate the building and wait for fire crews to arrive.

What is on an extinguisher’s label? You’ll find:

  • essential information about the types of fires they can combat. Newer devices have pictures that correspond directly to the fire types listed above. Older models have letters serve the same purpose.
  • a numerical rating that designates the extinguishing potential for that particular model (class “A” and “B”).
  • instructions for the fire extinguisher operation.
  • a tag that indicates if and when an inspection occurred.

Does a fire extinguisher expire?

A fire extinguisher can expire and they do this for a few different reasons. One common way is that, over time, the seal on the neck will weaken and allow compressed gas to escape. A fire extinguishers that has lost much of it’s pressure will not operate. Pressure within an fire extinguisher can be conveniently checked through a pressure gauge. “ABC” class extinguishers (ammonium phosphate) have the tendency to fail due to solidification of the chemical in the canister base. Homeowners and inspectors can delay this process by periodically shaking the extinguisher. Expensive extinguishers that have expired, especially those designed for commercial use, can be refilled and resealed by companies who specialize in this service. Inexpensive models are disposable.

Unfortunately, an expiration date cannot be fully trusted and there is no foolproof way to know if a fire extinguisher is no longer functional. Due to the extremely destructive potential of fires and the relatively low cost of a fire extinguisher, it is advisable to replace or recharge any questionable fire extinguisher.

A fire extinguishers is classified based on it’s chemical ingredients, all of which have their own strengths and limitations. It is important to know what type of a fire extinguisher combats what type of fire.  A Fire extinguisher is a critical indoor component that must be maintained and inspected regularly.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas that forms from incomplete combustion of fuels, such as natural or liquefied petroleum gas, oil, wood or coal. Carbon Monoxide poisoning can be lethal.

Having a working carbon monoxide detector is important…..and can save lives!

carbon monoxide detector Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors

Carbon Monoxide Facts and Figures

  • 480 U.S. residents died between 2001 and 2003 from non-fire-related carbon monoxide poisoning.
  • Most CO exposures occur during the winter months, especially in December (including 56 deaths, and 2,157 non-fatal exposures), and in January (including 69 deaths and 2,511 non-fatal exposures). The peak time of day for CO poisoning exposure is between 6 and 10 p.m.
  • Many experts believe that CO poisoning statistics understate the problem. Because the symptoms of CO poisoning mimic a range of common health ailments, it is likely that a large number of mild to mid-level exposures are never identified, diagnosed, or accounted for in any way in carbon monoxide statistics.
  • Out of all reported non-fire carbon-monoxide incidents, 89% or almost nine out of 10 of them take place in a home.

Physiology of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it displaces the oxygen that would ordinarily bind with hemoglobin, a process the effectively suffocates the body. CO can poison slowly over a period of several hours, even in low concentrations. Sensitive organs, such as the brain, heart and lungs, suffer the most from a lack of oxygen.

High concentrations of carbon monoxide can kill in less than five minutes. At low concentrations, it will require a longer period of time to affect the body. Exceeding the EPA concentration of 9 parts per million (ppm) for more than eight hours may have adverse health affects. The limit of carbon monoxide exposure for healthy workers, as prescribed by the U.S. Occupational Health and Safety Administration, is 50 ppm.

Potential Sources of Carbon Monoxide

Any fuel-burning appliances which are malfunctioning or improperly installed can be a source of carbon monoxide, such as:

  • furnaces;
  • stoves and ovens;
  • water heaters;
  • dryers;
  • room and space heaters;
  • fireplaces and wood stoves;
  • charcoal grills;
  • automobiles;
  • clogged chimneys or flues;
  • space heaters;
  • power tools that run on fuel;
  • gas and charcoal grills;
  • certain types of swimming pool heaters; and
  • boat engines.

PPM

% CO
in air

Health Effects in Healthy Adults

Source/Comments

0

0%

no effects; this is the normal level in a properly operating heating appliance

35

.0035%

maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift

The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH)

50

.005%

maximum allowable workplace exposure limit for an eight-hour work shift               OSHA

100

.01%

slight headache, fatigue, shortness of breath,
errors in judgment

125

.0125%

workplace alarm must sound (OSHA)

200

.02%

headache, fatigue,
nausea, dizziness

400

.04%

severe headache, fatigue, nausea, dizziness, confusion; can be life-threatening after three hours of exposure

evacuate area immediately

800

.08%

convulsions, loss of consciousness;
death within three hours.

evacuate area immediately

12,000

1.2%

nearly instant death

CO Carbon Monoxide Detector Placement

Carbon Monoxide Detectors can monitor exposure levels, but do not place them:

  • directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up;
  • within 15 feet of heating and cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms;
  • within 5 feet of kitchen stoves and ovens, or near areas locations where household chemicals and bleach are stored (store such chemicals away from bathrooms and kitchens, whenever possible);
  • in garages, kitchens, furnace rooms, or in any extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas;
  • in direct sunlight, or in areas subjected to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawlspaces, unfinished attics, un-insulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches;
  • in turbulent air near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh-air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the carbon monoxide sensors.

Do place Carbon Monoxide Detectors:

  • within 10 feet of each bedroom door and near all sleeping areas, where it can wake sleepers. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) recommend that every home have at least one carbon monoxide detector for each floor of the home, and within hearing range of each sleeping area;
  • on every floor of your home, including the basement (source:  International Association of Fire Chiefs/IAFC);
  • near or over any attached garage. Carbon monoxide detectors are affected by excessive humidity and by close proximity to gas stoves (source:  City of New York);
  • near, but not directly above, combustion appliances, such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces, and in the garage (source:  UL); and
  • on the ceiling in the same room as permanently installed fuel-burning appliances, and centrally located on every habitable level, and in every HVAC zone of the building (source:  National Fire Protection Association 720). This rule applies to commercial buildings.

In North America, some national, state and local municipalities require installation of carbon monoxide detectors in new and existing homes, as well as commercial businesses, among them:  Illinois, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Jersey, Vermont and New York City, and the Canadian province of Ontario. Carbon Monoxide Detector installers are encouraged to check with their local municipality to determine what specific requirements have been enacted in their jurisdiction.

How to prevent CO poisoning

  • Purchase and install a carbon monoxide detector with labels showing that they meet the requirements of the new UL standard 2034 or Comprehensive Safety Analysis 6.19 safety standards.
  • Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to the manufacturer’s instructions and local building codes. Have the heating system professionally inspected by an InterNACHI inspector and serviced annually to ensure proper operation. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
  • Never service fuel-burning appliances without the proper knowledge, skill and tools. Always refer to the owner’s manual when performing minor adjustments and when servicing fuel-burning equipment.
  • Never operate a portable generator or any other gasoline engine-powered tool either in or near an enclosed space, such as a garage, house or other building. Even with open doors and windows, these spaces can trap CO and allow it to quickly build to lethal levels.
  • Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent unless it is specifically designed for use in an enclosed space and provides instructions for safe use in an enclosed area.
  • Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent.
  • Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
  • Never use gas appliances, such as ranges, ovens or clothes dryers to heat your home.
  • Never operate un-vented fuel-burning appliances in any room where people are sleeping.
  • During home renovations, ensure that appliance vents and chimneys are not blocked by tarps or debris. Make sure appliances are in proper working order when renovations are complete.
  • Do not place generators in the garage or close to the home. People lose power in their homes and get so excited about using their gas-powered generator that they don’t pay attention to where it is placed. The owner’s manual should explain how far the generator should be from the home.
  • Clean the chimney. Open the hatch at the bottom of the chimney to remove the ashes.  Hire a chimney sweep annually.
  • Check vents. Regularly inspect your home’s external vents to ensure they are not obscured by debris, dirt or snow.

Carbon monoxide is a very dangerous gas that can be created by many different household appliances. Carbon Monoxide detectors must be installed in the proper locations throughout the home or business to alert occupants of high levels of carbon monoxide poison.

 

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Bedrooms That Really Aren’t Supposed to Be Bedrooms

Bedrooms or any room for that matter, must conform to specific requirements in order for it to be considered a bedroom or sleeping room. The reason for this law is that the inhabitant must be able to quickly escape in case of fire or another emergency.

Why would a homeowner use non-conforming rooms as a bedrooms?
non window in bedrooms 300x225 Bedrooms That Really Arent Supposed To Be Bedrooms  Some of the reasons include:

  • to earn money from it as a rental. While they run the risk of being discovered by the city, landlords will profit by renting out rooms that are not legally bedrooms;
  • to increase the value of the home. All other considerations being equal, a four-bedroom house will usually sell for more than a three-bedroom house; and
  • lack of knowledge of code requirements. To the untrained eye, there is little obvious difference between conforming bedrooms and non-conforming bedrooms. When an emergency happens, however, the difference will be more apparent.

Homeowners run serious risks when they using a non-conforming rooms as a bedrooms. An embittered tenant, for instance, may bring their landlord to court, especially if the tenant was forced out when faux bedrooms are exposed. Landlords, upon being exposed, might choose to adjust the bedrooms to make them code-compliant, but this can cost thousands of dollars. Landlords can also be sued if they sell the home after having advertised it as having more bedrooms than it actually has. And the owner might pay more than they should be paying in property tax if they incorrectly list a non-conforming bedroom as a bedroom. Perhaps the greatest risk posed by rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms stems from the reason these laws exist in the first place:  rooms lacking egress can be deadly in case of an emergency. Unfortunately in many cases people have been killed by a blaze when they had no easy escape.

The following requirements are taken from the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC), and they can be used as a general guide, but bear in mind that the local municipality determines the legal definition of bedrooms. Such local regulations can vary widely among municipalities, and what qualifies as a bedroom in one city might be more properly called a den in a nearby city. In some municipalities, the room must be above grade, be equipped with an AFCI or smoke alarm to be considered conforming bedrooms, for instance. Ceiling height and natural lighting might also be factors. The issue can be extremely complex, so it’s best to learn the code requirements for your area. Nevertheless, the IRC can be useful, and it reads as follows:

  • EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND RESCUE REQUIRED SECTION: R 310.1 Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room, but shall not be required in adjoining areas of the basement. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided, they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1,118mm) above the floor. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with SECTION R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well, in accordance with SECTION R310.2.  
    • MINIMUM OPENING AREA: SECTION: R 310.1.1 All emergency escape and rescue openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5.7 square feet (0.530 m2). Exception: Grade floor openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5 square feet (0.465 m2).
    • MINIMUM OPENING HEIGHT: R 310.1.2 The minimum net clear opening height shall be 24 inches (610mm).
    • MINIMUM OPENING WIDTH: R 310.1.3 The minimum net clear opening width shall be 20 inches (508mm).
    • OPERATIONAL CONSTRAINTS: R 310.1.4 Emergency escape and rescue openings shall be operational from the inside of the room without the use of keys or tools or special knowledge.
  • WINDOW WELLS: SECTION: R310.2 The minimum horizontal area of the window well shall be 9 square feet (0.9 m2), with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (914mm). The area of the window well shall allow the emergency escape and rescue opening to be fully opened. Exception: The ladder or steps required by SECTION R 310.2.1 shall be permitted to encroach a maximum of 6 inches (152mm) into the required dimensions of the window well.
  • LADDER AND STEPS: SECTION: R 310.2.1 Window wells with a vertical depth greater than 44 inches (1,118mm) shall be equipped with a permanently affixed ladder or steps usable with the window in the fully open position. Ladders or steps required by this section shall not be required to comply with SECTIONS R311.5 and R311.6. Ladders or rungs shall have an inside width of at least 12 inches (305 mm), shall project at least 3 inches (76mm) from the wall, and shall be spaced not more than 18 inches (457mm) on-center vertically for the full height of the window well.
  • BULKHEAD ENCLOSURES: SECTION: R 310.3 Bulkhead enclosures shall provide direct access to the basement. The bulkhead enclosure with the door panels in the fully open position shall provide the minimum net clear opening required by SECTION R 310.1.1. Bulkhead enclosures shall also comply with SECTION R 311.5.8.2.
  • BARS, GRILLS, COVERS, AND SCREENS: SECTION: R 310.3 Bars, grilles, covers, screens or similar devices are permitted to be placed over emergency escape and rescue openings, bulkhead enclosures, or window wells that serve such openings, provided the minimum net clear opening size complies with SECTIONS R 310.1.1 to R 310.1.3, and such devices shall be releasable or removable from the inside without the use of a key, tool, special knowledge, or force greater than that which is required for normal operation of the escape and rescue opening.
  • EMERGENCY ESCAPE WINDOWS UNDER DECKS AND PORCHES: SECTION: R 310.5 Emergency escape windows are allowed to be installed under decks and porches, provided the location of the deck allows the emergency escape window to be fully opened and provides a path not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in height to a yard or court.

Non-conforming bedrooms are rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms, as the occupant would lack an easy escape in case of emergency.

Non conforming bedrooms