Home Inspection FYI

Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Home Inspection FYI - Providing Help, Knowledge and Other Useful Information To Home Owners Everywhere

Structural Insulated Concrete Walls

Insulated Concrete for Exterior and Structural Walls

According to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) and the Portland Cement Association (PCA), concrete homes account for approximately one-sixth of all new-home construction, and in areas such as Florida and Louisiana, they are particularly favored because of their greater resistance to hurricanes and tornadoes.

Contractors and buyers alike are attracted to their durability, strength, and heat-retention qualities. Let’s take a look at how homes constructed using concrete – in their common application as insulated concrete forms or ICFs – measure up against wood-frame homes.

Does the greater initial cost of insulated concrete forms pay off in the long run? insulated concrete form drawing Structural Insulated Concrete Walls

Proponents of insulated concrete forms claim that the initial higher cost of building with concrete as opposed to the more common wood-frame construction is justified by the savings on lower heating and cooling costs, lower property insurance, and lower maintenance costs.

A variety of factors affects the cost-benefit of insulated concrete forms, including:

  • the cost of wood compared to concrete for the local area;
  • the thickness of the walls;
  • the number and types of windows in the home;
  • ceiling insulation;
  • the sizing and efficiency of the heating and cooling equipment; and
  • the climate in the region where the home is constructed.

The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) found in 2001 that using insulated concrete forms in construction added about 3% to 5% to the purchase price of a typical wood-frame home. These estimates should be treated with caution, however; a study by the PCA found that additional costs associated with insulated concrete form construction depend on the skill of the crew, and greater savings are found on large-scale projects involving multiple homes, where the method and economy of scale come into play. Simply put, local contractors may take on an insulated concrete form project but may lack the necessary expertise for execution, resulting in added costs.

Additionally, the greater construction costs for a typical insulated concrete form home are not necessarily recouped by the savings on energy and home insurance alone.

Other Values Offered by Insulated Concrete Forms

Resistance to Hazards

The single most significant attribute in favor of concrete construction is its structural safety. Implicit in the average lower insurance cost for insulated concrete form homes is the understanding that ICF homes better withstand natural disasters, such as hurricanes, tornadoes and floods. Insulated concrete form homes typically “recover” from hurricanes far quicker than wood-frame homes, as the exterior walls may withstand a hurricane and only a new roof will be required following such an event. huntsville tornado damage 01 Structural Insulated Concrete WallsIn comparison, wood-frame houses in the same areas are usually devastated by hurricanes, meaning
longer rehabilitation times for residents and lengthier processing times for insurance claims.  Concrete offers far better compressive strength, and far greater resistance to windborne debris. Insulated concrete form walls have been tested for resistance to tornado conditions by subjecting them to the impact of a 2×4 wood stud traveling at 100 mph. Although it is possible to upgrade the impact resistance of standard wood-frame wall construction to levels suitable for protection against moderate hurricanes and less severe tornadoes, it is impractical to upgrade standard wood-frame wall construction to give comparable performance of ICF walls.

Insulated Concrete Forms and Fire

Concrete walls have superior fire resistance compared to wood-frame houses. Solid concrete insulated concrete form walls can generally sustain as much as four hours of extreme fire exposure, whereas typical wood-frame walls in houses generally do not exceed a one-hour fire rating. For housing, building codes typically require a minimum 15-minute rating, with the exception of special fire separation requirements for multi-family construction, apartments, and townhouse units, where a minimum one- to two-hour fire rating is required for walls between dwelling units.

Furthermore, concrete is not a fuel source that can contribute to fire growth and spread in a building. However, it is also important to realize that doors, windows, and other cavities can mean lower resistance to fire spread if not similarly fire-rated, in comparison to the walls. Regardless, fire resistance is a recognized benefit of insulated concrete form construction and can result in reduced fire insurance premiums.

Durability of Insulated Concrete Forms

In Ireland, where housing ownership is relatively high and the cost of wood compared to concrete is also relatively high, concrete housing is the preferred material for construction. An added appeal for those wishing to go with concrete is the perceived notion that concrete houses will last hundreds of years and thereby provide a legacy to future generations.  While it is difficult to exactly quantify durability benefits in the varying use-conditions of building materials, concrete offers added resistance to moisture and other environmental factors. While wood is protected within the walls of the home, it is susceptible to rot in areas where water often penetrates the exterior weather-resistant barrier of a home.

Insulated Concrete Forms and Noise

A study conducted by the Public-Private Partnership for Advancing Housing Technology, or PATH, rated concrete’s sound-absorption qualities as “excellent,” while wood homes scored “average” to “good.” In order for a wood-frame home to obtain similar performance ratings, it is necessary to make certain modifications, such as using thicker gypsum board layers, resilient channels, or acoustic insulation. These enhancements can add about $0.70 per gross square foot of wall area, which accounts for an increase of about 20% in the cost difference between insulated concrete forms and standard wood-frame construction (see the table below). In addition, concrete’s dampening quality limits the vibration to exterior walls when doors or windows are slammed, for example.

Windows and Doors Used Insulated Concrete Forms

In traditional wood-framed homes, there is an added cost associated with installing the windows and doors. Additional material is required to support them, often with expensive micro-laminated headers or additional stud support. In comparison, the overall cost per square foot of fenestration and door construction decreases with concrete, as the concrete bonds better around the cavity and maintains structural support.  However, a study of thermographic testing by the NAHB found that houses constructed with insulated concrete form walls have up to a 50% decrease in the required capacity of HVAC equipment because the greater insulative capacity of concrete allows for smaller heating and cooling systems. Finally, once the concrete is set, it is comparatively difficult and costly to saw through the concrete to create additional cavities or modifications for HVAC units or windows.

Cost Comparison Based on Performance

Another way of assessing the cost-benefit of insulated concrete form housing is to measure the cost of upgrading a wood-frame home to perform in a manner similar to a concrete home, shown in the following table.

Performance Characteristic

Increase in cost to upgrade or retrofit
a typical wood-frame home to ICF standards

Fire protection

Not feasible or considered impractical

Sound-proofing

20%

Durability

20%

Energy efficiency

33%

Safety and hazard mitigation

50%

As seen above, the added costs of upgrading a wood-frame home to meet comparable performance levels of an insulated concrete form home show that concrete homes may offer greater value, depending on the consumer’s needs.

 

While it is commonly agreed that insulated concrete is a more expensive technique for home construction, it is generally incorrect to presume that the greater initial cost will be recouped by energy savings alone.  The single biggest attribute in favor of insulated concrete is its structural integrity and ability to withstand severe environmental hazards. Rather than looking at any single element of the cost-benefit scenario, the greater all-round performance attributes of insulated concrete provide a compelling argument for its choice as a construction material in exterior walls.

Roof Trusses

TRUSSES

trusses 300x212 Roof Trusses

Trusses for roofs are engineered roof framing systems in which the main components — roof trusses — are designed by structural engineers, then assembled in a manufacturing facility before being delivered to the job site by truck.

Let’s take a look at how trusses are built.

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Trusses are manufactured in a wide variety of configurations and have been around since the early 1950s. Trusses have to be engineered correctly, so if you see trusses fastened together with plywood gussets instead of rings or gangnails…

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… you’re looking at a non-professional design, and you should recommend evaluation by a structural engineer.

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In this photo of the same home, you can see that roof leakage has caused wood decay of the plywood gusset. By the time decay becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength, so decay is one more reason to recommend evaluation by a structural engineer.

Most roof trusses are designed to bear on the exterior walls only. Trusses touching interior walls can transfer roof loads to walls not designed to carry a structural load.

Trusses touching interior walls can also create point loads on trusses at points not designed to support point loads. In rare cases, this has resulted in “exploding trusses.”

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As you can see in the image above, the bottom chords of trusses should be fastened to the tops of interior, non-bearing walls with slotted clips which allow for some vertical movement of the trusses. Movement is usually related to changes in the moisture content of the wood trusses. This can be a response to changes in relative humidity or other conditions which cause moisture level fluctuations in attic spaces.

Truss movement can also result when roof loads exceed the structural design loads of the trusses, as might happen with the accumulation of lots of wet, heavy snow in an area that seldom gets snow.

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Trusses are usually braced with a system of 2x4s and 1x6s when they’re installed. The locations of bracing can be different for different truss designs, and you’ll have no way of knowing what the requirements are. Trusses are often installed with blocks at the roof peak and above the outside walls, but these are not always required.  So, in your report, don’t call missing blocks or bracing a defective condition.

Look for signs of failure.

Trusses out of plumb are poor-quality construction but may be stable. If they’re badly out of plumb, mention that in your inspection report. Look for broken or damaged truss components, and comment on them in your report.

Trusses should never, ever be structurally altered in any way without approval from a structural engineer. If you see trusses which have been cut or reinforced, recommend evaluation by a structural engineer.

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Trusses sometimes rest in hangers instead of bearing on a wall. When this is the case, check the fasteners carefully. These hangers were fastened with roofing nails, and that’s a defective installation.

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Here’s the garage of the house.  The neighbor told the inspector that the roof of the garage next door had collapsed during a big snowstorm the previous year.

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It’s easy to see that the trusses have been altered. Plywood gussets were added at a connection that would typically have had metal gangnails installed.

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In the rare instances in which alterations involving plywood gussets have been approved by a structural engineer, gussets usually have backing for perimeter nailing installed, are glued with a special construction adhesive (such as PL Premium), and are heavily nailed, with nails every two or three inches or so.  You should see lots of nails and glue squeezing out of joints. As you can see in the photo above, that wasn’t the case here.

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Looking over to the wall, notice that the hangers seem to be small for the load they’re carrying.

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The hangers turned out to be sized for a 2×4, which is far too small for the roof load they are carrying.  They were fastened with a total of four gold deck screws each! The deck screws are a serious defect, rated far below acceptable hanger nail strength.

In addition to that, they were installed through drywall, which does not support the shaft of a fastener the way wood does.

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The problems don’t end there. If you look closely at the gangnail, you can see that it has been damaged and the spikes are no longer embedded in the wood. Instead, the gangnail is attached by a couple of nails which have been bent over.

This roof is structurally inadequate and dangerous. It needs to have corrections for the trusses designed by a structural engineer, and bids from qualified contractors for making the corrections. Corrections needed to be completed as soon as possible.

Thanks To  Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko of InterNACHI

Roof Trusses 

Roof Framing Components

Roof Framing FYI. Collar Ties and Rafter Ties

Collar ties and rafter ties are both horizontal roof framing members, each with different purposes and requirements.
 

Collar Ties

roof framing Roof Framing Components

Collar ties are designed to tie together the tops of opposing rafters. This helps brace the roof framing against uplift caused by wind. Collar ties must be placed in the upper third of the roof.

Other facts about collar ties:

  • They may or may not be required, depending on jurisdiction. Inspectors should not call out lack of collar ties as a defect unless they know that collar ties were required in the jurisdiction in which the home is located at the time the home was built.
  • Collar ties are probably not needed if metal connectors were used to fasten the rafters to the ridge.
  • Where they are required, they should be installed on every other rafter where rafters are on 24-inch centers.
  • The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires they have a minimum nominal dimension of 1-inch x 4-inch.
  • Collar ties, contrary to popular belief, do not prevent walls from spreading.

 

Rafter Ties

Rafter ties are designed to tie together the bottoms of opposing rafters. This helps keep walls from spreading due to the weight of the roof. When the walls spread, the ridge will sag. A sagging ridge is one clue that the home may lack adequate rafter ties. Rafter ties form the bottom chord of a simple triangular roof truss. They should be placed as low as possible in the roof framing.

Other facts about rafter ties:

  • Rafter ties are always required unless the roof has a structural (self-supporting) ridge, or is built using engineered trusses. A lack of rafter ties is a serious structural issue in a conventionally framed roof.
  • In most homes, the ceiling joists also serve as the rafter ties.
  • Where rafters are oriented perpendicular to the ceiling joists, rafter ties should be installed just above the ceiling joists. The ties usually rest on the joists.
  • When rafters are installed on 24-inch centers, rafter ties are typically installed every other rafter.
  • It’s not unusual to see rafter ties of either 2-inch by 4-inch or 2-inch by 6-inch. The 2006 IRC requires them to be at least 2-inch by 4-inch.
In homes with flat ceilings and an attic space, the bottoms of opposing rafters should be fastened together with ceiling joists, which form “rafter ties.” When rafters have been installed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, rafter ties typically rest on top of the ceiling joists.
Rafter ties prevent the weight of the roof from spreading the tops of the walls and causing the ridge to sag.

Roof rafters, collar ties and rafter ties may be connected with metal hardware or just nailed. Rafters on one side of the ridge will be nailed through the ridge, and those nails will be hidden behind the opposing rafters. The opposing rafters will be toe-nailed. The proper nailing scedule for toe-nailing rafters is three nails in one side and two in the other.

In roof framing, there are a lot of places where framing members connect. Requirements for these connections have changed over the years, but you can still identify basic defects.

Structural engineers have to calculate the loads on connections between framing members and specify hardware that will support those loads. Fasteners are what attach metal connectors to wood framing members. In order to ensure safe connections, fasteners of the right metal alloy and of the correct minimum diameter and length have to be used.

When a workman uses a roofing nail instead of a hanger nail at a structural connection, that connection will be much weaker because roofing nails are weaker than hanger nails. Roofing nails are designed to anchor roofing materials against uplift, not to support a structural load.

If fasteners are used that are inadequate in strength, the connection may fail.

 

FYI, collar ties and rafter ties perform different functions but are both essential roof framing members.

 

Roof Framing